[Munch]

Howdy… 1st…relax…. it’s not as hard as you think.
2nd…yes there’s all kinds of differences…fit, style, available “protection” weather proofing etc etc.
Gloves you have fingerless, gauntlet style, wrist cuts, gel padded or non… perforated (leather) or not, water proof or not…..armored…or not…… lol
Boots…. hmm…laced, zippered, slip ons, then you have riding shoes, riding boots, some that have been dubbed “Power Ranger ” style, some the old HD stereo type jobs, water proof or non…. etc etc etc.
Jackets….. Textile, leather, mixture of both… one starts with a C and if I look I will find it…..getting lazy. Armored or not, Perforated ( leather) or not, Removable liner or not… list goes on and on. Go to places like leatherup.com, Cyclegear.com and you will see more differences and style then you thought you would need…. enjoy!!!!

[Munch]

Awesome… take pics when you do and let us know how you like it!

[Munch]

On your tires look in the tread grooves. You will see in different parts of the tires a little raised area in the groove. Some manu’s make it easy to find by giving you a small arrow on the sidewall of the tire to point out each location. Some tires have even tried to get fancier ( I think Goodyear is one) that designed a message in the tread in the center that says ” If you can’t see this time to replace” ….well close enough. Most manu’s leave the wear bar indicator at 2/32’s or as most people like to dumb it down as …. if you stick a penny in the tread groove you will be touching Lincolns head. Of course if your not in the US that doesn’t help much. Typically to get good safe water shed you need about 2/32’s of tread depth.

[Munch]

There is a degree of change yes… Responsiveness, “hook up” and even the characteristic of stability. It all depends on the compounds the shape the sidewall stiffness and even the tread pattern. More Rubber less grooves equals incredible traction as you have more rubber hitting the ground… but you suffer in wet weather and loose traction situations. Well grooved tread patterns will gain you more “security” in wet weather conditions but may lack in “hooking up”. Harder compounds don’t grip as readily but certainly do not lack it in a jeopardizing way. The harder compounds have better tread life as softer ones do not….
Help any?

[Munch]

Hmmm….. guess that just makes me fugly…. or threatening looking …. everytime I glance over I get the quick head turn like they had a LEO beside them.

[Munch]

Mostly due to the rubber compounds on OE tires… I am already having to replace mine on the 9 after 3500 miles. The rubber compound is ridiculously soft and sticky and has no wear life. The manu. does the same things as auto manu’s, give you the softest and stickiest rides to hook you from the word go then leave you to replace it well after you have been down the road a while.

[Munch]

Holy chit!!!!!!! Man that was just ridiculous!!!! Daaaaang! to be able to hold yourself up with sheer strength and control that strength to counter balance/steer the bike enough to keep vertical… we shall call him Mr. Amazing.

[Munch]

I agree….distance is only a matter of his stamina both physically and mentally. I grew up here in NC and I know how quick a t-storm can catch ya. That will be another thing he needs to consider. Being that he leaves that early in the morning I would highly suggest a lot of reflective gear. Distance is relative though. I only commute about 36 miles one way … can easily get 100 in a day. There are many a time that I really have to convince myself that I need to go in to work that morning. There have been a lot of times where I just want to keep going. Just make sure he takes a cell phone with him and ask him to take a 5 min stop to call you and let you know he’s doing fine. That way you won’t have to worry so much about him.

[Munch]

anyone from NC within reason to Raleigh area wants to ride I am up for it!

[Munch]

oh boy….. just remember you asked the question….
I am gonna sit this one out :^)

[Munch]

Even though I am sure you Dad has a good amount of skill…I would still recommend a safety course to get started. It will be easier to you to learn as with most cases the emotional responses will be left out and you can focus on what you are trying to learn.
As far as height…. it can be gotten around ( though you forgot to mention how tall/short you are) and strong enough… well the hardest part about riding is wrecking then getting out from under it…. strength wise . I have seen 120 Lbs women here riding full dressed Valkyries. If you worried about strength go ahead and get your excersize routine in full swing.
Most any 250cc will be a good starter for you , especially since you plan on keeping it in town. Take a look around at some of our members posts and even the reviews.
Other then that …welcome.

[Munch]

Yes…and read above my initial

[Munch]

Yup small town east of Raleigh. I rode my 500 for quite a while before stepping up.

[Munch]

I had one….5″10′ 18o you shouldn’t have any worries for it. Might give scootworks a look though for accesories like forward foot controls and such…. not sure how your legs are as far as length. I didn’t need em

[Munch]

I would let your mechanic know that now your tank is completely empty and the symptom is still there. The carb could have thrown itself out of adjustment…. opened up what used to be partially clogged jets..etc etc.

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