- This topic has 6 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 14 years, 11 months ago by Munch.
Questions on used motorcycles
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May 31, 2009 at 10:40 pm #2929cgwParticipant
1. How much tread does a tire need to past inspection? (road tire) Mostly I would want to estimate time left on a used tire.
2. I looked at a 96 Suzuki GS500. It had hairline cracks around the edge of the fork seals. Is this a sure sign they need to be replaced or would it be more obvious?
3. Same GS500 – I never took it for a ride because it was stalling in idle. The owner had shown it earlier in the day and thought the person had played with the idle. That may or may not be true, but I think the owner was honestly surprised there was a problem. It was acting like it was not getting gas though the tank was full. Ideas?
May 31, 2009 at 11:46 pm #19125RabParticipant1. Tires generally have little arrows at intervals around the sidewalls which point to where the wear bars are. Wear bars are little raised areas (bumps) moulded into the bottom of the tread grooves. When the tire has reached the end of it’s useful life, these bumps will be level with the tire surface. You can also buy a tire tread gauge which you push into the tread groove (avoid the wear bars) and read-off the tread depth.
Here’s a nice concise article on the subject. Ask at your DMV re. your state’s requirements (if any). I’d think that 1 mm tread depth should be regarded as an absolute minimum for safety.
http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/tires.asp
I just changed a front tire (at 11K) although I think that was pretty good in terms of tire life (?).
2. Leaking fork oil is a sure sign that they need replacement.
3. Could be a blocked breather, dirt/rust in the carb or gas filter or just poor choke adjustment. It’s not entirely unheard of for people to come and sabotage your car/bike and then offer you a low-ball price cause you just want to get rid of the (now) rough/non-runner. It happened to me with a car where someone swapped the ignition leads, so it wouldn’t start. Bastards!
Whatever, don’t buy it until he fixes the problem(s).
I would recommend that any privately purchased used bike be immediately taken to the dealer for a service and safety check (preferably before the purchase).
June 1, 2009 at 10:44 am #19135cgwParticipantShould a bike start right up without using the throttle? (with the choke or without the choke when warm)
June 1, 2009 at 1:23 pm #19139MunchParticipantyea check the tread depth requirements…here in NC 2/32nd’s is minimum.
Define start right up…..June 1, 2009 at 2:13 pm #19141Clay DowlingParticipantThere should be no problem with firing right off the first time. Some cold-blooded bikes like mine will actually stall out if they have much throttle applied until the engine is warm. In fact, I know mine is ready to go because I can apply throttle and it will rev instead of sputter. Usually takes about the length of time I need to put on helmet and gloves to get there, unless it’s in the 30s, when I also have time to slip on a balaclava.
June 1, 2009 at 4:43 pm #19151cgwParticipantShould it start when pressing the button without giving it any gas?
If cold start with the choke but no throttle.
If warm start with no choke and no trottle.June 1, 2009 at 5:04 pm #19155MunchParticipantYes…and read above my initial
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