[Rab]

From the California DMV Web Site (http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29.htm)

Vehicles Purchased From Out of the Country.

“California has special requirements for vehicles imported from other countries (including Canada and Mexico). It may be very costly and in some cases impossible to modify these vehicles to meet California emission requirements and/or federal motor vehicle safety standards. For example, vehicles manufactured to be sold in Europe (gray market vehicles) less than two years old are not legal for registration or use in California”.

Bikes less than *two years old (I believe) are classified as “new” by California DMV and therefore must meet California’s stricter (than the rest of the U.S.A.) emissions (exhaust gases and fuel evaporation) standards. Even here in the U.S.A., bikes sold by California dealers are different to those sold in the other states.

* ALSO: “California law considers any vehicle with less than 7,500 miles on the odometer when acquired by a California resident or business to be a new vehicle”.

See also:

http://www.whybike.com/blog/index.php?p=117

http://www.clearedanddelivered.com/article/CD-Help/15/import-a-motorcycle-to-the-usa

As another poster says, “Google is your friend”.

[Rab]

A full-on super sport will have a twitchy throttle (typically an Inline 4 engine). Twins? no, not really.

Whenever you get on a different bike, just use the controls very gently until you get the feel of them; that’s all.

[Rab]

Spend some time looking back through the threads on this board and you’ll find out most of what you want to know; or at least be aware of all the varying opinions

A great place to start is by getting yourself a copy of “The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Motorcycles” which should be available at any of the big book chains or online. It covers a multitude of things a new motorcyclist should know.

The main thing I disagree with the book on is some of their “Recommended First Bikes”. I’m of the opinion that most brand new riders should begin on a 250 c.c. bike for 6 months to a year (think “training wheels”) before moving on to something bigger. If you buy a used 250, you can sell it in 6 or 9 months for pretty much what you paid for it.

You *can* learn on any engine size bike, but learning to ride a 250 to its limits, will make you a better rider than learning on a 650 or bigger and being scared of it.

BTW: I was older than you, 6′ and ~185 when I started riding; on a Honda Nighthawk 250 which is not fake retro, it’s real retro

Suggested *second* “old-fashioned” bikes? Yes, any of the japanese 600 c.c. and up cruisers, an HD Sportster 883, or if you like the old Brit Bike look, a Triumph Bonneville (Triumph started making them again).

[Rab]

The first service is usually a simple one and mainly involves:

1. Changing the oil and filter (essential).
2. Cleaning and lubricating the chain (if a chain drive bike). Also checking the chain tension and adjusting if necessary.
3. Checking that all nuts and bolts are tight (*not* by snicking them up tighter).
4. Giving it a general “once-over” e.g. checking other fluid levels (if any), cables, tires, brakes, steering, etc. and maybe test riding it.

This will vary by bike (check your owner’s manual), but there’s usually not much more than that involved in a *first* service. Later services may be more involved and require more invasive procedures like valve adjustment, plug replacement, etc.

Although it’s fairly easy, you might want to have the dealer do the first service and you do (at least some of the) subsequent ones. The reason I say this is that they might pick up on mistakes that were made when the bike was assembled from the crate (not unheard of).

Check your warranty to see if it *requires* that you have the dealer perform all services.

If you’re going to service and repair your own bike, you can buy a specific “shop manual” for your bike (expensive). A more generic and very readable book is “The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance” by Mark Zimmerman. I have that one, and for what it is, it’s not bad (lots of explanations of how the various systems on your motorcycle work as well as how to do stuff). Another, apparently more basic book, which gets mixed reviews (see Amazon.com) is “Motorcycle Owner’s Manual” by Hugo Wilson. Also, the “Complete Idiot’s Guide to Motorcycles” belongs in every new motorcyclists library as it’s a great primer on all things motorcycle and includes some basic service and maintenance how-to as well.

Whichever way you go, keep all the receipts either from the dealer, or for your oil, filter, etc. This should help when you sell your bike (and with warranty claims) as you then have proof that you serviced it.

[Rab]

Actually I *was* kidding with the “know it all” line, but obviously you didn’t get it.

Hint: This is where you start cursing some more and I ignore you, or alternatively, you think better of it and don’t.

[Rab]

You don’t even know me, so branding me an ******* based on a couple of lines of truth that you don’t want to hear is irrational.

You claim to be a “grown man”, but you’re acting like a spoilt child with your sad little name calling rant. If you are indeed a “grown man”, you’re not setting much of an example here for “the high school kiddies” are you? I know, you “don’t give a rat’s …”.

Many people have commented that one of the reasons they enjoy this board, apart from the good advice that they (hopefully) receive, is that the discourse is civil, unlike many other boards. Don’t spoil it for the many because you’re having a bad day (or a bad life…).

[Rab]

Looks like you’re bitchin’ more about the cost of the course than anything else.

If you haven’t completed the last session, then aren’t you a bit premature in dissing the whole course?

Maybe you’re just a know it all

Sorry your experience of *your* MSF course wasn’t what you would’ve wished, but be aware that you’re probably in the minority, as you’re the only person I’ve ever heard saying that they didn’t think it was any good.

[Rab]

The two I’ve had (both HJC) just came in a carry bag within a box within a box which I think is enough to cushion any sharp blows it might have got in transit.

[Rab]

Matt said:

“you get a lot of “life-style”, “urban”, and “fashion” comments in their press releases and advertising – which just turns off more of the ‘hardcore’ ducati fans”

Triumph are doing that too and their earlier Triumph RAT magazines were like one of those “women’s magazines for men”.

They also had some effete designer make a range of “fashion accessories” for the Bonneville, including tank covers, one of which has daisies (flowers) painted on it!

The Bonneville is the modern incarnation of a motorcycle that, in its day, was considered one of the fastest, baddest, bad-boy bikes on the road… Bloody Daisies!!!??

Geez!

[Rab]

My Tourmaster Transition jacket attaches to my Olympia Motosports air glide pants as they both use the same YKK zipper.

So it’s not that different jacket/pant combinations won’t pair, it’s just that they might not.

BTW: Jackets and pants typically zip together to prevent the jacket riding-up if you’re sliding along the road after an unscheduled get-off. As many of them only have an 8 inch zip along the back of the waist, it’s probably of limited value anyway (?).

[Rab]

Looks like I unwittingly pushed a few buttons there.

[Rab]

You need to get out more

[Rab]

There was talk of the Monster 696 running overly lean in order to meet the new European emissions laws which is probably what he was talking about regarding the Termignoni kit (expensive!).

http://www.ducatimonster.org/forums/accessories-mods/187927-termignoni-exhaust-really-worth.html

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/showthread.php?t=47976

[Rab]

Yes, it’s pretty standard for them to add on tax, freight, RMV/DMV fees, assembly (from the crate) fees and fake fees too sometimes). New motorcycle buying can be like used car buying I’ve found. That said, prices are often (always?) negotiable.

When I bought my new bike about 6 weeks ago, there weren’t many bikes that I wanted in the local showrooms (all sold-out and waiting for ’09 models), so not much room for negotiation there. I was expecting to pay MSRP plus all the crap, but managed to find one and get it for $400 less than MSRP (an advertised price). I was happy with that so didn’t even try to negotiate. With my previous bike, I negotiated $250 off their asking price. The one before that, I showed them another dealer’s advertisement in “Cycle Trader” magazine and they “price-matched” to that saving me ~$400.

To cut the crap, you should ask the dealer for their best “out the door” price and use that to negotiate from and compare offers. Sometimes they’ll be willing to negotiate on price and sometimes they’ll throw in some free gear (jacket and/or helmet etc.), but if they’re doing that, then they’re obviously not giving you their best price.

If and when you sell a bike, try to sell it on Craig’s List, etc. first. It can be a pain dealing with all the tire kickers and yahoos, but you’ll usually just be insulted if you try to trade it in.

For dealer invoice prices, check out : http://www.cyclebuy.com/invoice.htm

P.S. For the more sensitive souls on the board, “crap” is not a swear word, it’s derived from the name of the man who is generally credited with inventing the flush toilet, one Thomas Crapper.

[Rab]

Maybe you’re agonizing about this too much; I tend to do the same.

Do your research, read the reviews, make your shortlist (which you’ve apparently come close to already), then go sit on the bikes (ride ’em if they’ll let you), make your decision and then do the deal.

You know, *any* of the bikes you’re considering will be more than up to the job and all will have their strengths and weaknesses. A 650-1000 c.c. twin is ideal for a second bike and with inexpensive soft luggage, any bike can be a touring bike.

Pick the one that speaks to you (you’ll know which one you *really* want) and then don’t look back.

You’re probably going to change the bike in a couple of years anyway, so no biggie really…

[Author]

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