[Munch]

for the most part …yes, some instead of fogging go to this almost greasy type appearance instead of fog. You can still see but makes it feel like you just woke up and can’t fully focus….blurry.
The best solution is to crak your visor just a touch to allow the cooler air run up the inside of the visor. On my Gmax less then 1/16th of an inch is more then enough. If thats too cool for you time to look into Baclavas.

[Munch]

LOL, good point… I would hope everyone on this site wears their gear. Realisiticly…….the entire population of riders do not and even some that do only ride in what is enforced by law.

[Munch]

Well being that I am not an average consumer as I know what all is involved with ABS.
The first and fore most argument will be the price tag. I have no clue about sport bikes, not my thing, but for cruisers on average it adds anywhere between $2000 to $3000 on the price tag. Some will not see the justification for that add on price for the rarity that you need it. Another is, yes, a maintenance and repair standpoint.Y’all are correct in stating that you don’t lose your basic brakes if the ABS system shuts down, however you just added a $2000 paper weight to your bike when it does break. Repair wise they can be aggravating as all get out to repair, bleeding sequences, purging the system and heck the added electronic controls just throws that much more heart ache into the mix. Then throw in the fact that the average rider likes turning wrenches on their own ride. How many here know how to mess with an ABS system? How many know the process to purge the main body of air should you over heat the fluid and get the brake fade? Will the average person know how to diagnose whether its a valve in the main body or just an air bubble causing the malfunction.
So with all the above you sit down and think…..”Ok so ABS comes into play only in harder then normal braking, which I can 90% of the time avoid by remembering basic safety practices, increasing following distances, always staying keen on escape routes, oh yea not to mention …let’s just not ride in the snow to begin with”, now taking this into the thought pattern and you have just haggled the guy over price for the sake that is now ’09 and the bike is an ’08…….you can save an addition 2 to 3 grand by not getting the 5-10% used/useful ABS system…… where do you think thats going to lead. Most everyone will take the non ABS. I know some would try to point the next argument from a logic perspective. Hey lets be honest, we are not logical when it comes to riding and neither is general population. We ride on 2 wheels for the feeling of freedom and the excitement, when we can just as easily get from point A to B in a cage and in a safer manor.

Me personally I have nothing against ABS systems at all. However the “safety” factors are HUGELY over inflated. For me it represents laziness. You take your time to be responsible on learning to ride and control your bike. Not getting lazy about sticking to a good safe habit on every ride and you now reduce that 5-10% usefulness to less then a 1% chance you’ll ever need em. That to me is not worth the 2 to 3 grand on the price tag.

Oh yea on the automotive side of things….. ABS systems are like air bags, in some cases they help, in others they do not. I have seen and repaired the vehicles from both sides of that coin.

[Munch]

I am kinda wondering if your confusing the results between torque and horsepower. Or maybe it’s just that we are from 2 different areas. The squids here want the torque. It’s what gets that front wheel off the ground and gets them outta the box quick. Remember, torque more easily put, is what throws your butt back against the seat horsepower is what keeps you there. You can have all the horsepower in the world but if you don’t have the torque to utilise it is not gonna mount to much.
As far as ABS goes…..most reviews on any bike that I have seen have left the editors with a feeling tha tyou have to try really hard to get it to activate. Meaning I wouldn’t worry too much about forgetting how to brake properly. Remember ABS’s only purpose is to modulate the hydraulic pressure quickly and at a calculated maximum braking point to help deter prolonged wheel lock up. The only thing I could see that could mess with you is if you went to an integrated braking system like Goldwings have.
As far as the difference between I4 and V-twin….. I am too old and like seeing the scenery I am riding through to worry about it.

[Munch]

that worked

[Munch]

I usually just stop for 30 secs and keep my brake lights flashing. They run in pretty tight strings, so if you see 1 there is sure to be more. Actually had one run into my Jeep years ago that way….saw the first one and stopped…..the sibling came in behind her…. saw the first down from the car ahead of that smacked her and the turned immediately and ran into the side of my jeep…I felt bad for a second.

[Munch]

yup still only shows 1/1 for me….maybe because I am not a subscriber.
Funny to see something in there about Nacogdoches (sp) . I lived in Jacksonville for a little while and would have loved to ride through there, Nac, and Tyler.
TBH that area was the only part of east TX I liked.

[Munch]

hmmm only got one page showing

[Munch]

No good for spoked/tubed wheels.

[Munch]

Congrats man!  Yea def. slow down when your feeling a bit weary about things.
 Unfortunately some of us don’t have the luxury of fix a flat and never have I needed a Fuse. There again I haven’t delved into the electrical on my 9 just yet.
I am past a year into riding and forgot the accumulated miles and I don’t want to lie. Like you I ride rain, shine, cold or hot. Only 3 things that keep me from riding Frozen precip, lightning, and when I have my kids……even with the kids I take the youngest from time to time on a ride.
I have a lot of positive feedback on the fuel processors however at $300 give or take… that’s a touch pricey for me. Though I did just add the overdrive pulley on the 9 not more then 2 weeks ago. The processor might come before spring.
Keep adding em up and keep coming back…BTW….. whatcha do with your lights?

[Munch]

Depends on the type of fuel delivery. FI……10 to 20 secs should be fine as the ECM can compensate for any adjustments needed. Carb’d ……opinions vary but personally I tell anyone that asks to wait til it’s warmed up ( listen for RPM’s lowering to normal op. temp. speeds). May not effect the the motor as far as hurting it but can reduce the hesitation you can get from a cold fuel system, which could potentially put you in danger if you have to romp it.

[Munch]

Eh I ride at night…. fluoro’s, hi viz does you no good in the dark. Everything I own….mostly black has reflective piping on it.

[Munch]

Yea. Fortunately I already had put the lowers on the fairing from the onset…..mostly cause I liked the finished look of it.
Cool thing I found out this week, first week its rained since I had it, was the “turbulence” comes from over top of my helmet and actually forces the water down….. which really is wild to see as a cruiser person. The really trippy thing to see is that the turbulence that comes up my leg actually catches the shedding water and throws it forward to get caught again by the upward pushed wind at the top of the shield…. really wild to see. There again probly unique to my riding position but effective for me.
Glad your as happy with your as I am with mine!

[Munch]

“First and i think biggest, is that a previous owner took out the
petcock, so there is no access to the reserve fuel. No idea exactly
why, but thats the way it is. I want to fix it myself or have a shop do
it so that I have the full range of travel. Is this an expensive or
difficult fix?? (i’m also new to fixing bikes).”

He tell you this or you assuming because you can’t find the switch? Also one of the first things you need to do is look a service manual for your bike before you start turning wrenches on it. For many obvious reasons.
However even if it came with one and it is gone you still have the full range of fuel just have someone trail you til you run outta gas to give you some….make note of the distance traveled between fill up and Kaput, and just always pay attention to your mileage.

” The throttle cable is
also slightly wiggly at the handlebars … fix? or don’t worry about
it? “

Where exactly at the handlebars….. near the throttle grip? or further back? Again the service manual will be a good thing here also to know how much adjustment you need for proper operation.

[Munch]

taken care of…hit save once….. even with slow loading screens….seems to still send the info twice.

[Author]

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