[Jeff in Kentucky]

Here is one site for adjustable footpegs for the 2006 Kawasaki Ninja:

http://cyclepirates.com/main/select_by_bike?bike_id=46&class=year_form&productline_id=15

[Jeff in Kentucky]

The trip from work would not be bad if it is at least 40 degrees F, but the trip to work at 7 am seems too dangerous to me- from car drivers who are not awake yet, and in the dark. I just ride my motorcycle for pleasure trips.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

If you ride only a motorcycle for 6 months and drop your car insurance, then drive your car for 6 months every year, you can save money. I did this from 1980 to 1984 while in college, but it was not fun with the motorcycle on cold or wet days, and my storage and passenger space was limited.

To keep both a car and a motorcycle and save money, you would need to have a long drive to work and a small, used motorcycle for it to save money. You also need to factor in the tire costs- my motorcycle needs new tires about every 8,000 miles, and they cost about $350 to buy and have installed by a mechanic. The bigger and faster the bike, the more tires cost and the faster they wear out. Some people with Hayabusas need a new back tire every 2 months for street use, less for track use.

Moneywise, an old 3-cylinder Geo Metro car that you can buy cheap will be the most economical for areas with a cold winter, but a guy at work that had one said they do not have much traction in the snow, because they are so light- it would be best to put snow tires on the front and carry 100 pounds of sand bags in the back for snowy weather. He drove his over 200,000 miles before the engine started to burn some oil.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

A funny named state park in Kentucky, note the name of the street and town too:

http://parks.ky.gov/findparks/recparks/bb/maps/

[Jeff in Kentucky]

Aprilias are generally a more expensive exotic, with few dealerships. When we went on vacation to Panama City Beach in Florida about a year ago, a company was renting 125cc Aprilia 2-strokes or various scooters for people on vacation- I do not think the 2-strokes are street legal in California for public roads, because they burn oil, but the new 125cc 4-stroke should be legal for California roads.

If I had a lot of money, I might get one of these for short trips and stunts (not for a beginner):

http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/35/5678/Motorcycle-Article/2010-Aprilia-SXV-5-5-First-Ride.aspx

[Jeff in Kentucky]

I trailered my new bike home in 2002 to practice on 30 mph streets for a while, before getting on 55 mph and 70 mph highways. Most beginners start out in a big parking lot, with plenty of room to take corners too wide.

I started on dirt bikes. At 8 years old, the first dirt corner I came to I lost traction for the front tire (tucked it) and crashed, but it was an old mini-bike with a 3.5 horsepower Briggs & Stratton engine, so it was no big deal.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

Typical close call- I am riding on a straight 2-lane highway going 55 – 60 mph. I see a car to the right, at a driveway or side road, and they are waiting to turn left onto the highway I am on. They do not see me and turn left directly into my path. I brake hard as I am heading toward the driver’s door, and turn right so my bike goes behind their car, as they are crossing my lane. I had this happen one time while driving a car, and about 5 times on a motorcycle.

Here it is from the driver’s view, turning right in the UK:

[Jeff in Kentucky]

On a long trip, I stop every 80 to 100 miles to get gas and take a break.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

I am waiting for the next MotoGP season- I ride all winter on days at least 40 degrees F and dry. Here is a video for my home state rider, hopefully he will do better this year with Rossi’s mechanic helping him:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIa1UT7BI8c

[Jeff in Kentucky]

500 Vulcan long legs- here are 2 possibilities:

expensive but the best solution for very long legs:

http://www.seegercycle.com/en500-vulcan-forward-controls.aspx

cheaper and helps for long legs:

http://www.hac-products.nl/product/26/19/driver-floorboard-

I do not like highway pegs- I like to have my right foot near the back brake pedal at all times.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

I think it is best to be as close to the back bumper of the car as possible, and in one of the two car tire paths, so you have the most traction for braking before turning. For the few close calls I have had like this (maybe 5 since 1980), my bike is heading toward the driver’s door while I am braking hard, then I turn right to go behind the car, as it turns left into my lane without the driver seeing me.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

At 6′-3″ tall, the 250cc and 400cc supermotos, the Kawasaki KLR 650, or the Suzuki M50, C50, or S50 will fit your long legs the best, without any modifications to raise the handlebars, raise the seat, or move the footpegs more forward.

Do you want to do 300 miles plus a day at 75 mph after the first few months? Do you want to carry a passenger later, after you have some experience? Are you mostly going to do city and country riding at 60 mph or less?

The 250 or 500 Ninjas (or 500 Vulcan) are a better choice for doing 75 mph, by yourself for the 250, or the 500 with a passenger, and the Buell Blast is better at 60 mph or less with a passenger. The Kawasaki KLR and Suzuki 50s are more comfortable for long trips, but their higher weights and higher costs are not the best choice for a beginner.

In my opinion, it is best to learn on a dirt bike and then get a street scooter, then a street motorcycle as a third bike, but many people skip these earlier steps in their hurry to have a bigger bike on the street.

Ideally, get the smallest and cheapest bike you can live with, to lower the insurance, gasoline, and maintenance costs, and to be less likely to crash as you learn.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

I started on one of these at 8 years old, borrowed from a friend:

http://www.pepboys.com/accessories/powersports/baja_motorsports_doodlebug_dirt_bike

I got a used one of these this with my paper route money when I was 12 (mine was 65cc without the expansion exhaust header):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WHmVUIjcGG0

I bought one a used one of these at 14:

http://motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/classic_bikes/kawasaki_g4tr.jpg

I bought a used one of these when I was 21:

http://www.650motorcycles.com/photopost650/showphoto.php?photo=1120&title=1975xs-650&cat=506

I bought a new one of these when I was 43:

http://www.totalmotorcycle.com/photos/2002models/2002models-Honda-VT600C-ShadowVLX.htm

I am planning to buy a used black 2008 Kawasaki ZZR600 later this year.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

I would spend a few hundred more and get a bike less than 10 years old, unless you are a mechanic or have a special deal with a mechanic friend. If you buy an old bike, it is best to have everything checked by an expert.

Some shops will not work on a bike more than 10 years old, parts get harder to find for old bikes, and it is a safety issue if some hidden wear suddenly causes a big failure while you are going 75 mph and surrounded by cars. I was reading about a guy with an old BMW that crashed while passing a truck from a tank slapper, and the mechanic inspection afterwards found that the steering head bearings were worn and probably caused the crash.

My favorite choices for a beginner are the 250cc and 500cc Kawasaki Ninjas. They have been big sellers for years, a lot of parts are available both new and used, motorcycle mechanics know a lot about them, and they are water cooled for longer engine life.

For a person always planning to ride solo, the 250 Ninja would cost less. For a passenger added (pillion rider), the 500 Ninja is better. Some race tracks have classes for both of these Ninjas, with the Suzuki SV650 or a modified Honda Hawk as the next step above them.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

I wear prescription glasses, and I add clip-on sunglasses when I ride on sunny days, either the ones that came with my glasses, or the several extra clip-on sunglasses that I bought at Walmart for about $8 each, so I have a pair for each vehicle and a pair at work and at home. I had to bend the earpieces for my new glasses so they would slide into my helmet easier- take glasses off, then put on helmet, then put glasses back on.

Several people recommend the new Bell brand full-face helmets that come with a visor that automatically darkens and lightens. There are also a few helmets with a sun visor that slides up and down inside the clear visor.

I move my chin down during heavy glare, so the top of my helmet blocks more light, and I adjust my helmet lower than normal at the bottom front, even with sunglasses when the glare is bad, going east in the morning or going west at dusk.

Welcome back!

[Author]

Posts