[TrialsRider]

…maybe only in Canada, eh
I believe it is a law that all vehicles be insured, hence the reason the insurance is applied to the vehicle and not the driver. I believe this regardless of who was operating the vehicle at the time of an incident, including the case where the vehicle was in fact not being operated ( a runaway ) or for that matter if it was stolen and involved in an incident while at the hands of a thief.
I’d love to be corrected on this point, maybe then I could drop the insurance on several vehicles, seeing as I can only operate one of them at a time.

Remember also the insurance companies can in turn sue for liability as they deem appropriate, for instance; did you leave the keys in the ignition?

[TrialsRider]

Rode a couple of XS650’s, back in the day ( both owned by good friends ). One stock and brand new, the other older and somewhat modified. As I recall the engine was near bulletproof, although the stock electrics and carbs were problematic. ( carry spare spark plugs ) The handling was ‘marginal’ in stock form, the modified one had; upgraded swing arm bushings, taper roller steering head bearings and Koni aftermarket rear shocks. The modified bike handled better than the brand new stock one. The older bike also had significant engine mods that allowed it to out perform the stock bike, but both vibrated enough to blur your vision.
We all had motocross experience at the time, so I can’t speak towards learning on the bike, but I will say; at that time, it was the forth biggest bike I had ridden, smaller only to the Honda 750 Four, and Kawasaki 750 Triple and Kawasaki 900.
I would recommend the modifications to improve the stock handling characteristics, but , if the bike runs good enough as is, save your money on engine modifications.

[TrialsRider]

The three wheeler I had was equipped with a semi-automatic 5 speed transmission, no clutch and both hand levers operated brakes, so if yours was like that, the simple answer is no. Other than giving you a concept of what a laboring engine sounds like and what it sounds like when it’s time to shift, that does little to prepare you for the bike.
Good news is; I got rid of that three wheeler because every time someone came up to the farm and used it they got hurt ! I consider a full out motorcycle far safer than the experience I had with that trike. It steered like crap, particularly when it went up on 2 wheels, ( which was frequent) went way too fast ( what were they thinking when they geared them for such speed ) , ran over your leg the instant you put a foot down and flipped backwards way too quick going up steep hills.
I concur with WeponZero on the back pack being best, although it will be even hotter on your back from the extra layers ! I trust gloves are on your list. You don’t need to spend a fortune, personally I prefer the inexpensive mechanics type gloves with a single layer palm, as they don’t give you calluses as badly. Any gloves are better than none, because in a spill your reflex is to extend your hand and break the fall. ( which is a bad idea by the way )
For what it’s worth, I always ride wearing gloves and a helmet but seldom any other protective gear ( Garne boots on the Trials bike, moccasin boots on the street bike ) …but then, I do all my falling off on my Trials bike and plan to never crash on the street, so don’t go by me on the rest of the gear.

[TrialsRider]

…I think you might be right on that one. Good thing I keep my vehicles almost forever. My new truck replaced the one that was 23 years old, I gave it to the wives nephew. Hope there are some exceptions to the rule though, my daughter drives a Civic Si and they are only available in standard.

[TrialsRider]

The only thing I own with an auto (hydrostatic) is my tractor and that’s because you constantly go from forward to backwards while operating the bucket. That and I was foolish enough to think my wife might drive it if it wasn’t twin stick. Plus, I do all the work on my own vehicles and standard is much easier to service. When I ordered a new truck the dealer was astonished that I wanted the 6 speed standard, but I wouldn’t have it any other way.
IMO The only cars that should have an auto transmission is a stretch limo or a hearse.

[TrialsRider]

You missed one for Leather …smells great
BTW when the sides of the vinyl seat on my K bike ripped, I sprayed the entire seat with contact cement and stretched black garment leather over the entire seat. This resolved one of the original complaints about the K100, that the original seat was too slippery, and has lasted for many years in perfect condition. I was originally concerned that it might either take on water or transfer black dye to my pants, but have found that neither of these concerns are a problem. The leather dries with just a paper towel and having the original vinyl seat cover as a backing, it doesn’t take on water.

[TrialsRider]

Don’t know what the cost difference would be, but I also prefer the WR250X; liquid cooled and fuel injected …then I’d mount a lower front fender

[TrialsRider]

Brakes are almost the only thing that will make loud noise with the engine off. Inspect the brakes for: stones stuck in the caliper ( does the disk have groves wearing in it ), is the disk so polished that it looks like chrome? Brake pad ‘glazing’ ( can be sanded off the face of the pad or the pads replaced )

[TrialsRider]

…have a new traffic circle near us too, but it replaced a 2 way stop sign
It’s small enough diameter that the first time they use it as an emergency route for the nearby super highway, a single piggy-back truck rig will block traffic in 3 directions.

[TrialsRider]

Floats operate a ‘needle’ against a ‘seat’ (hence called ‘needle & seat’) this assembly usually sticks closed not open, unless there is dirt and debris between the two. If the floats quit floating (as in the old style floats that were copper and soldered, springing a leak) the float would sink, and gas would continue to flow into the bowl. Modern carb floats are generally made from a buoyant material so it is unlikely the floats are “waterlogged” (hopefully that would actually be gas in there if anything, but gas-logged don’t sound right
Is this happening from one or both carbs, or can you tell ?
…I think I’ve read about someone having this problem on a Ninja somewhere !

edit: …Gary856 gave the better suggestion.

[TrialsRider]

…depends on how far you slide along the pavement, eventually it would get hotter than f#&! !:i Great puncture resistance though. hmmmm, maybe ceramic chain maille? naaaa too hard to work with

oops, that was suppose to be a reply to: “That would be awesome!” , sorry

[TrialsRider]

I know a good pattern for making chain maille

[TrialsRider]

If anyone believes I’m wrong on this; I’d be happy to go in with you on selling ‘Sprocket Wax’ and ‘Bronze Plated Sprockets’ world wide. Just as long as a portion of the proceeds go toward teaching Motorcycle Riding techniques to the blind.

[TrialsRider]

Good read, I would caution exception to one particular concept though;
“remember that chain lube’s primary job is to lube between the chain and the sprockets.”

It’s called a ‘roller chain’ because it has little rollers and on an o-ring chain the o-ring seals are trying to keep the oil in and the dirt out of the parts that actually rotate and see friction. The challenge is to clean and lubricate the moving surfaces behind those seals. That would be the surface of the ‘axle’ of which each link has two. (the only part of the ‘axle’ you can see is it’s riveted ends)

If you actually needed to lubricate between the chain and sprocket surfaces, you might better just apply solid wax or thick grease to the sprockets, but I’ve never heard of anyone selling sprocket wax or sprocket grease have you ? …also never heard of a properly installed and maintained master link failing, but make your own decision on those two.

Wikipedia has an similarly good read, including a sketch of a roller chain by Leonardo da Vinci drawn in the 16th. century.

[TrialsRider]

Narrows the field real fast, but I haven’t bought anything for the last 6 years that has a rubber timing belt. Chain drive, gear drive (I wish) I’ll even take pushrods over a rubber belt now, the maintenance cost just became too high.

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