[ShamRock229]

Can someone tell me a little more about sprockets and the pros/cons of changing them?

[Jeff in Kentucky]

This is my favorite article about chains and sprockets:

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain.php

[ShamRock229]

That was a great article! Not only did I find out more info about the gears, but I learned some stuff I didn’t know about chain maintenence. Thanks alot!

[eternal05]

I would stick with steel sprockets (as opposed to aluminum): they’re cheaper and they don’t wear nearly as easily.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

Sportbike riders often add a larger back sprocket- the companies use a smaller one to more easily meet the noise and emissions standards, and these bikes go way too fast (higher mph) in first gear for the stock sprockets.

It is usually best to not add a smaller front sprocket- it wears the chain and front sprocket out faster, and may damage the transmission more easily.

If you do a lot of long, straight trips on a slower bike, a smaller back sprocket will drop the rpm in top gear and maybe make it run smoother, but it may either lower or raise gas mileage. A low powered engine may not have the power to lower the rpm too much.

If you do a lot of curvy country roads or drag racing, a bigger back sprocket will allow higher rpm in each gear, making the bike seem more powerful, but the top speed will be lower, and the comfort at 75 mph will be lower.

Adding a bigger front sprocket is like adding a smaller back sprocket, and most bikes do not have a lot of extra room in the front for a bigger front sprocket.

Aluminum back sprockets are for racers, to make their bike lighter, but they wear out faster.

[TrialsRider]

Good read, I would caution exception to one particular concept though;
“remember that chain lube’s primary job is to lube between the chain and the sprockets.”

It’s called a ‘roller chain’ because it has little rollers and on an o-ring chain the o-ring seals are trying to keep the oil in and the dirt out of the parts that actually rotate and see friction. The challenge is to clean and lubricate the moving surfaces behind those seals. That would be the surface of the ‘axle’ of which each link has two. (the only part of the ‘axle’ you can see is it’s riveted ends)

If you actually needed to lubricate between the chain and sprocket surfaces, you might better just apply solid wax or thick grease to the sprockets, but I’ve never heard of anyone selling sprocket wax or sprocket grease have you ? …also never heard of a properly installed and maintained master link failing, but make your own decision on those two.

Wikipedia has an similarly good read, including a sketch of a roller chain by Leonardo da Vinci drawn in the 16th. century.

[TrialsRider]

If anyone believes I’m wrong on this; I’d be happy to go in with you on selling ‘Sprocket Wax’ and ‘Bronze Plated Sprockets’ world wide. Just as long as a portion of the proceeds go toward teaching Motorcycle Riding techniques to the blind.

[Jeff in Kentucky]

Most dirt bikes use a clip type master link with no problems, and they have a lot more rocks hitting the chain. Most do not use a clip type master link for a bike with more than about 60 horsepower, because if the link does break you could be dead.

I like the Maxima Chain Wax, but it is in a spray can so it is not really a wax.

A guy on another forum took his chains off and cleaned them with a concrete floor cleaner diluted in water, then dried them and soaked them overnight in Amsoil synthetic gear oil. He also used Belray Superclean chain oil every few hundred miles.

I think the dust and dirt and sand is a lot different in different areas, so the best oil varies.

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