[SantaCruzRider]

Installing lowering links are the big guns of bike lowering and usually end up dropping the rear about 2 inches. This should be accompanied by adjusting the fork downward approximately the same amount to preserve the frame geometry. You’ll then need to cut down both the kickstand and centerstand. Downside of this is both cost and the fact that you will drag a peg earlier in corners (and depending on how you ride, this may never be an issue).

But you may also get what you need by making some smaller changes:
1. Set the rear shock preload to the lowest setting — which allows the bike to settle more under your weight.
2. Either replace the seat or take off the cover and shave both the height and width, then reinstall the cover. Make the seat a bit narrower, especially at the front, will often give you more leg reach than cutting down the height. And depending how it’s done, you may be able to preserve plenty of cushion in the mid, rear part of the seat, so you can slide back a bit while you’re cruising.
3. Wear thick soled boots. Not go-go style, but a sole that’s a 1/4″ thicker can make a big difference if you’re right on the border of tip-toe vs full toe down.
4. Make sure you’re sliding all the way forward when you put your feet down — you’ll have more reach.
5. Adjust your expectations for how flat-footed you need to be. I would NOT recommend getting a bike that puts you on your toes, but if you can get the balls of your feet down and not be off balance, that may be enough. The tough part is that while you’re learning, you’ll stop the bike in spots where the bike is sideways on a hill or your feet are in a dip. You’ll have no margin for error, so you have to get through that learning curve or you’ll drop it. But once you learn to not stop in a dip and to put down the foot that is on a high side, you will find that not having your heels down is no real disadvantage. Lots of beginner riders who lower their bikes find themselves reversing the procedure a year later — which is no big deal as long as you can afford the mods.

[SantaCruzRider]

Since you’re in the Bay Area, you may want to check out Riders Warehouse. I think it’s in Sunnyvale and they have something like 50+ used bikes on consignment.

I’ve never bought a bike there, but it’s cool to go in and sit on a bunch and get an idea for what your like. I would think the prices are negotiable.

[SantaCruzRider]

I thought I was accumulating points so I could buy cool stuff, like magazines and posters! Now I’m bummed! )

[SantaCruzRider]

“absolutely… I rode loaded” — thought that was going somewhere very different! )

[SantaCruzRider]

I use noise-cancelling ear buds plugged into my iPod. It helps get me in a groove for my 90 mile commute to work and back. I don’t find it to be at all distracting.

[SantaCruzRider]

If nothing about owning and riding bikes makes you at least a little scared, you’re probably delusional. I think it’s normal and natural to have fear. But at a certain point, while you may still be afraid to crash, you should not be afraid to ride. Real fear can be debilitating and will color your perception of situations — and that’s not good when you need your wits about you.

Personally, I gave up riding for 10 years and a good part of the reason was because I was afraid that I might get hurt and be unable to provide for my young family. I also had just moved to an island with very slick roads made from crushed coral and with tons of horrifically bad drivers. You might call it fear or sanity, but the feeling that a big crash was coming became overwhelming and it just wasn’t fun. So I took a break.

Don’t be freaked that you’re afraid. Skill and experience will likely overcome it. And if it doesn’t, find something else to do with your time and cash.

[SantaCruzRider]

You may also want to have the dealer adjust the rear shock preload. It’s typical for it to be set for an “average” 160lb rider, but then it won’t have enough give for your featherweight. If they set it to the lowest setting, you may find that it settles a tab under your weight — possibly enough to get your feet on the ground enough that you’re confortable. (Also, this adjustment only takes a minute, so they should be able to do it on the show floor.)

[SantaCruzRider]

And ironically, he does pretty much shoot his eye — only his eyeglasses shatter as they block the ricochetted shot. — Ho Ho Ho Ho Ho

[SantaCruzRider]

From what I’ve read, it’s as much a marketing and protection game as anything else. Actual comparison tests of both DOT and Snell approved helmets show no Snell advantage — http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-helmets/motorcycle-helmet-faq.htm

Personally, one of my helmets has Snell approval, but that didn’t factor into the buy.

My best helmets are DOT approved. The day I see a helmet manufacturer publish data showing that their Snell tested helmet is statically safer in a crash, I’ll consider changing my mind.

[SantaCruzRider]

Lowering a sport bike typically requires 4 steps:
1. Switch in some aftermarket lowering links — parts usually $200-$300; double that if you have the shop do it.
2. Cut and reweld, or bend, sidestand.
3. Cut and reweld to shorten centerstand (otherwise useless)
4. Drop triple tree (fork) to the lowest position possible to maintain geometry.

If you have a friend who’s a welder and are mechanically adept, minimum cost is probably around $250. But it could be more like $800+ if you need welding done. And it won’t be easily reversible because you’ll need new side and centerstands.

Last I heard, you were thinking about dumping the bike. It may better to do that before you make modifications.

[SantaCruzRider]

Then you have to renew it by retaking the written test — so no worries.

[SantaCruzRider]

Great bikes and no reason why they should be ridden like they were racing. I commute and fart around on a 1000cc sport tourer that some folks see as a crotch rocket with bags. But I get passed all the time by guys on “slower” Harley’s looking all “laid back” as they scream past.

I bought my current bike (a ’94) used and have been very happy. Not sure how old you want to go, but you can find some great deals on Ninja 250s and 500s, Suzuki GS500s. Another favorite of mine is the late 90s Seca II. It’s a 600 parallel twin that’s tuned for cruising and commuting. It’s known to be pretty bulletproof and easy to work on.

You might also check out some of the dual sports, like the Suzuki DRZ-400 and Kawi KLX and KLR. They are very fun to ride around town, nice and light, and are capable of highway speeds (though that’s a relative thing).

[SantaCruzRider]

Fun, fun, fun. If I had room the garage for a 2nd bike, it would be a dually. I’d probably ride it around town on all the small trips that seem too quick to warrant dragging out my touring beast.

[SantaCruzRider]

Sounds like you’re sorting it all out — great to hear.

The manual is right that revving higher will reduce mileage. But my approach has always been to accelerate briskly, and use a big chunk of the rev range (maybe 4-9k) before each shift. Then when I reach the speed I’ll be at for a while, I find a gear that puts the revs around 4k. On my bike, that’s a sweet spot for the best mileage, but still being in the power band for decent acceleration.

You’re bike revs a bit higher, so these numbers aren’t absolute — but the general idea is the same.

Good luck.

[SantaCruzRider]

If you’re using that to describe your riding position and you want the lounger, feet up and forward ergo, then yes, the cruiser is what you should be looking at.

But if you mean laid back as in smooth on the throttle, nice easy pace, enjoying the outdoors and scenery without feeling like you have to take every turn as fast as you can — a cruiser, dual-sport and most sport bikes can do that just as well.

You’re on the right track with planning to sit on a bunch of different bikes. The ergos will push you toward one style or the other.

[Author]

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