[SantaCruzRider]

That’s an interesting math problem. Assuming a GPS deviation of up to 10′ (which seems reasonable), your deviation for a 1 mile trip could be as much as 20′. Since there are 5,280 feet in a standard mile, that’s a possible error of as much as 0.379% (as in about one third of 1%).
That same 20′ max deviation for my 42 mile commute results in a max error of 0.009% (or less than one one-thousandth of a percent).
Technically speaking, I’d wager that we’d find more deviation error and variation based between folks you ride on the outside of turns vs inside over the course of my commute. But that would be getting pretty fussy

[SantaCruzRider]

Folks on the Connie forum seem to have ODO readings that are anywhere from spot on to 10% high (none have said theirs reads low).
I checked mine early last year, but have since changed tire model on the front, which I understand will increase the inaccuracy. But I haven’t measured it.
I understand the interest in high MPG, but I personally worry about it too much as it relates to my riding and bike choice. I’ve been able to increase my mileage about 8-10% by riding at a very mild pace and keeping the revs low. But a more natural pace puts me at 38 average, which is fine with me.
At the end of the day, the bike gets nearly double the MPG of my car, gets me to work 35% faster and is provides 175% more smiles. — (OK, I admit to having no stats to back up that last measure)

[SantaCruzRider]

Note that the GPS was used for measurement of distance, rather than speed. I’ve compared the readings against distance measurements for Google maps and Yahoo! maps and they confirm the mileage. This was done for my daily 41 mile commute (82 RT), so it’s giving me a pretty good average.

[SantaCruzRider]

The last 10k I’ve averaged 38 mph on my 1-liter Kawi Concours.
This is based on gas purchased and miles as messured on GPS. As with most MCs, my mileage would be higher if I used the bike’s odometer.

[SantaCruzRider]

That’s my bet

[SantaCruzRider]

It sounds like you’ve done what you need to do as far as finding the cheapest insurance for that particular bike.
I’d mirror earlier comments about the relatively low limits on your coverage. You can eat through $25k coverage really fast.
As much as it might hurt to consider, the best formula for further cutting your insurance costs are to find a motorcycle that insurance companies see as a lower risk (you’ll have to do some research, but perhaps a dual sport). Also, get one that is used and has a low-enough value so that you don’t need to carry any comprehensive.
This may not match your dream of getting the newer Ninja, but it could dramatically cut your insurance costs and in a couple years you’ll probably find your insurance costs are dropping.
At this point, the motorcycle is a luxury and spending a third of your take home on insurance will leave little for other items (gear, maintenance, gas, college, burgers, etc)

[SantaCruzRider]

Hey Sleep,
Note sure if you’re still looking, but if you get down to the South Bay, you may want to check out Riders Choice Used Bike Warehouse in Sunnyvale. They have a website, but it isn’t always up to date and there are often a bunch of used bikes on hand that aren’t shown online. They must have 60+ used bikes on display at any point in time, everything from dirt to dresser, so maybe only 1-2 in the class you’re looking for — but it’s fun to browse and they always seem OK with throwing a leg over.

One note of mileage for used bikes: In my opinion, it’s a double-edge sword. It’s no benefit to a bike to sit unused, but every mile also adds a TINY bit of wear and tear. The average bike gets something like 2,500 miles per year, so it would probably be ideal if you could by from the anal-retetentive maintenance guy who rode 2.5k each and every year and then did ALL maintenancde on time and has records to prove. In practice, you’re more likely to find a guy who put 10k on it the first year, dropped it the second and got scrared and didn’t ride again for 2-3 years. Then he got it running, but has only taken a few trips and his wife wants it out of the garage.

In my limited experience, if if starts with minimal fuss, stays running, accelerates without hesitation and gets better as it warms, then shows no leaks or fumes, it probably will keep doing so for some time. If not, I don’t care how little the PO says it will cost to fix, I’d walk. Unless you love spending your time wrenching (and I know guys who do — so no dig on them), get one that is running perfect, buy it and ride it. There’s plenty of opportunity to fuss with maintenance down the road.

[SantaCruzRider]

You can likely ding the Sporty in a number of areas, but upgrading the rear brake will provide little benefit. I always found the rear brake to be very sensitive and gave more stopping power than the suspension could handle. Even if you beef up the fork and front brakes, you’re still unlikely to find that the stock rear brake is lacking. It may seem so on paper, but I found it was plenty up to snuff on the road.
As an added benefit for the Sporty, while the rear brake was powerful enough to introduce me to several opportunities for rear wheel slides, the low center of gravity and neutral balance helped ensure that all ended in upright stops.

[SantaCruzRider]

She needs a little gear and the bike may need a tune up, but whatever…

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-sn4YSXR7_g

[SantaCruzRider]

Does seem a bit odd that no Harleys were harmed in the production of that article.

[SantaCruzRider]

I’ve never owned one, but come close to buying one for my current ride. The bike is very similar in performance to the SV650. Even though it makes it’s power with an inline 4, it reportedly runs the 1/4 just a tad slower than the SV.
On the negative side, it weighs in at more than 100 lbs more than the SV. Some of that is comprised by 5.8 gallons of fuel carried way up high in the tank — so it feels top heavy and can be pretty challenging at low speed.
If you were already sold on getting an SV and instead came across a great deal on a ZR-7, I personally don’t think you would be compromising your safety. But you need to recognize that you have already jumped onto the border of what most folks here would consider a safe first bike, and now you’re dipping your toe over the line.
At the end of the day, the ZR seems to be quite popular with 2nd bike owner and then again with more experienced riders moving back down to an engine size that’s more manageable but still gives more power than they truthfully need.

[SantaCruzRider]

Plus, it looks like it can out-accelerate your Honda —

[SantaCruzRider]

I started off riding a naked bike with no shield or fairing. Loved the wind in the face and warm breezes –was living in Hawaii at the time, so no issue with cold. Even then, high speed riding is considerable more tiring because of the wind buffeting and you get more fatigued after 60 minutes on the bike.

My current bike is fully faired and it is amazing how much calmer, warmer, drier and downright pleasant it is behind the fairing.

I still love the look of the naked bike and would have one if I had room for a 2nd (town) bike. But for my 90 mile RT commute and highway blaster, I really enjoy the fairing.

[SantaCruzRider]

The difference between dual sports and dirt bikes are that dual sports have the necessary gear that allows them to be ridden on public roads. This includes such obvious items as brake lights, turn signals and a license plate.
Other items such as 4-cycle vs 2-cycle and street legal exhaust are typical of dual sports, but not as obvious.

[SantaCruzRider]

Sorry, but I have to agree with Eon. While there may be some nuggets of truth in this tome, it’s buried under piles of spurious misinformation and is incredibly self-indugent.
My first reaction was to start picking it apart, but it so flawed that it doesn’t really seem to be worth fixing.
Others on this forum may have a lot more freetime.

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