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5 Common Wear and Tear Items on Motorcycles
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SantaCruzRiderParticipant
IMHO: Add Intruders and older Shadows to the mix of Viragos and Vulcans and you have a rogues gallery of great handling, often under-ridden and under-valued bikes out there. Personally, I think the Intruder were some of the greatest looking and most honest cruisers ever built — and they handle great. Same goes for the Viragos, but the styling either works for you or it really doesn’t.
As for your riding area, you hae two things to consider. The first is altitude. Some folks are going to tell you that for high altitude, you need a fuel injected bike (vs. carb). While EFI is better at seemlessly handling altitude changes, the good news for you is that you are aleady at high altitude. A carb adjusted for your local pressure should be able to tackle Vail or Manitou without issue. Where carbs “can” get really messed up is coming from sea level and then hitting those elevations.
As for offroad – there’s an old saying that you can take ANY motorcycle off road once. Whether it survives to do it again is something entirely different. Your listed bikes have a few benefits when it comes to limited dirt roads (I’m talking campground dirt roads) and that includes a lack of fragile plastics and a relatively neutral riding position that allows maneuverability that isn’t quite as natural with extreme foot-forward cruisers.
On the other hand, if your goal is to really ride some cool trails, you may want to set aside the styling and look into a dual-sport. There are some great models out there that might be perfect for you.
SantaCruzRiderParticipantWow, that approach scares me just reading about it. But it’s probably just how you explain it.
Ever since I ran over my first object that I was seeking to avoid, I’ve practiced avoidance by furiously focusing on the clear path.
SantaCruzRiderParticipantI had the hang of pushing to counter steer (which as mentioned put my head, eyes and body in the proper turning position) when it dawned on my that pulling would provide essentially the same steering input. Once I’d started using both in concert, I found that it put me even more in tune with the turn. It’s now my prefered method in the twisties.
Having the ability to turn with either a push or pull also makes it easier to remain in control should you ever need to remove on hand from the bars, like when you need to adjust a visor, zip up a vent or check your text messages
SantaCruzRiderParticipantThe alignment of the cylinders, the HPs, where in the powerband the engine makes it’s power, the ergos, frame geometry and bike weight are all huge factors that determine whether or not a given bike is suitable for a novice rider.
An argument could be made that an 883cc Harley Sportster (maybe even a 1200cc Sporty) is a safer bike to start on than a 600cc Sport bike. I’m not recommending either as a good choice, but the point is that the ccs don’t tell the whole story.
All things being equal, v-twin engines (like in the Stars) typically provide more manageable power in the lower rev range than do parallel twins and much more so than inline 3s and 4-cyllinders. Cruisers also tend to have low seat height that appeals to many novices and frame geometry that is a bit more forgiving of braking mistakes.
Once you’re completed the MSF, the 650 Star may be a decent choice for you. But, it may not be a good choice at all for your wife and the biggest downside is going to be the weight.
A 650 set up like a Silverado weighs in at more than 580 lbs. That’s a beast for a beginner and can be very intimidating. Compare that to the 250, with a curb weight of 324 lbs.
If I were you, I’d reserve buying anything until you’ve both completed the MSF and sat on a few bikes.
Also, you may want to try to put the 2-up riding idea out of your mind for a while. Carrying a passenger creates many issues with handling (not relate to the bike size). It may be more practical to get an older 250 that you can both learn on, then in a year or two, you can upgrade to a 650-ish bike that is capable of carrying two.
SantaCruzRiderParticipantBuying lesser brands is likely going to cost you more money over time, including possibly higher repair costs and lower resale. If you can get one for half the price of the Kawi, you’re willing to wrench on it yourself and you don’t mind being bikeless while you source parts, then it might be worthwhile. Otherwise, stick with what’s known to work and spend your time riding.
SantaCruzRiderParticipantThe best protection money can buy is something along the lines of the full leather race rigs that you see at professional motorcycle events. Below that, it becomes a matter of compromise where you need to balance a variety of factors that include: comfort and practically, your budget, your tolerance for risking injury and your comfort with riding unprotected (if you ride pre-occupied by the thought of not having a certain piece of gear — you’re dangerous).
My person minimum is the following:
— DOT full face helmet (I’ve purchased name brand, comfortable ones on sale online for $55)
— Thick leather gloves (I have 2 pair that extra pair that have armor and I picked up for $15 ea online)
— Armor jacket (I went leather for $100, but have seen decent quality textile for $75 or less online)
— Ankle height leather, cap toe boots (my favorites are HD, but I’m good with $50 construction type as well)
— JeansNow this is my putzing around town MINIMUM and I personally feel comfortable in the belief that it is enough gear to help me avoid most of the avoidable injuries that might happen at 30-40 mph. When I hit the highway (commute), I add MC textile overpants with separate knee/shin armor. They are a bit goofy looking when I get off the bike (look like a dorky wannabee snowboarder), but they add a huge amount of lower body protection in the unfortunate occurance of an uplanned slide down the highway. I got them on sale online for something like $60.
If you look at the list above and are not particular about color/style, you could probably put together a kit of helmet, gloves, armored jacket and leather boots for $200. It won’t be the ultimate setup, but I’d argue that it will provide MUCH more protection that going out in T-shirt, sneakers and bareknuckle.
SantaCruzRiderParticipantKidding — you dad is probably very hip and stylish
Thanks for the great comments. I think I will check out the perforated leather.
I really like the protection of leather.
Plus I rarely ride in really high heat — typically max around 90 for my evening commute. Lane splitting cuts any stopping to a vare minimum, so I’m usually able to keep at least some air moving.
I’ll check out some perfed leather.
ThanksSantaCruzRiderParticipantAnd who knew that John Travolta did Honda commercials back before Welcome Back Kotter?
Fun stuff
SantaCruzRiderParticipantSmart dealers can smell window shoppers and they would be foolish to start dropping the price until they feel you are ready to buy. So they will always give you the impression that there is no wiggle room, and there won’t be until they have an offer on the table.
If I were in your shoes, I’d do a search of Craigslist and print out a half dozen sheets showing similar bikes for sale. Then print out KBB sheets on each, staple them together and carry them with you when you visit the dealer with the bike you want. Tell him you want the bike, but you plan to only have it for a year or two so you can’t afford to take a huge loss by paying way over blue book. He’ll know the retail KBB is $2,900, and when he sees you leafing through your sheets, he’ll know that you’ve done your research too. He’ll also know that you have other options and you’ll look like someone on a mission to buy a bike today.
Now make your offer. Your first offer tips your hand, so don’t make it the most you want to pay. When they counter, they are likely to come down only 20-50% of the difference between your offers, because they are hoping you will keep meeting them halfway. Instead, haggle them down hundreds while you haggle up tens. For me, it goes something like this:
Me: I can see the value of the low mileage, so I’d like to take it home today and will pay you $2,950 cash.
Dealer: Hell no. Best we can do is $3,700.
Me: Wow, that’s really steep, especially in light of all the other similar used bikes out there. How about $3,025?
Dealer: Let me check with my manager… can’t believe it, but he’s willing to go $3,500, but no lower.
Me: OK, thanks for checking (as I get up). Sure is a nice bike though, … you sure you wouldn’t take $3,100.
Dealer: No way, but let me check… OK, we’ll take $3,100, but we’re taking a loss, I’m getting no commission and you’re stealing from me!Obviously, this won’t always work. I’ve walked out of plenty of auto and MC dealers with no deal. But, when I’ve bought used, I’ve always gotten in below KBB retail and typically 20-30% below advertised price. My guess is that the dealer has something like $2,450-$2,920 into the bike. Somewhere above that they make money. They don’t make $$ storing used bikes.
SantaCruzRiderParticipantSeveral years on the high wire should help — then you can jump straight to a 650.
Hilarious TR.
SantaCruzRiderParticipantGot a new battery yesterday and now all is well. I bumped the capacity up to factory spec as the PO had installed one size smaller (seems to be somewhat accepted on the boards for this bike, but why try to save $10 and go a bit lower power?).
Bike fires on the first hint of ignition, which it didn’t all of last year. I think I probably got every last second of use out of that old battery. And I took the advice and put the date on the new one. Thanks
May 2, 2010 at 6:00 pm in reply to: How soon after getting your first bike did you go out on the freeway? #26117SantaCruzRiderParticipantCome to think of it, since I was living in Hawaii and then Guam at the time, it may have been 3+ years before I ever got onto something you’d consider a freeway (onramps, guard rails and overpasses). There just weren’t any!
But I did ride on the main highway (speeds of 65 plus) on my first road ride. I pretty much had to as it was the route from the dealership to my home.
As others have said, watch your following distances as speed can feel very comfortable and it’s easy to creep up on the car in front. Also watch those transition zones where freeways merge and split, as that’s where you’re likely to encounter drivers changing multiple lanes at the last minute and not watching for a bike.
Use your lane position to increase both your ability to see far ahead and to be very obvious to motorists around you. When starting out, be sure to avoid settling in behind cars that tailgate, as they are more likely to make erratic changes and are often pushing their own limits.
But on balance, I find freeway riding to be less taxing per mile than city riding. People are coming at you from fewer directions and it’s a bit easier to keep tabs on the surroundings.
SantaCruzRiderParticipantDo be careful getting excited about any finance offer until you know you qualify. Suzuki even states right up front that their 1.99% may actually be one of four other rates ranging up to 8.99%.
Some dealers will gloss over that and focus on the fact that they can get your monthly payment down to $XX because they spread the payments out 5 years. Contemplate whether you are ready to commit that long to the bike, because if you change your mind in 3 years, you probably still won’t own any part of that bike.
SantaCruzRiderParticipantBut then she’ll end up owning a Suzuki — kak kak…
SantaCruzRiderParticipantI think Kawi is offering 4.99% on all new bikes. Of course that’s subject to qualifying for that rate.
Generally, you best rate will always be a manufacturer incentive (like the 4.99% above). Next on the scale will usually be a local credit union, followed by banks. Many of these folks will offer financing on used bikes, but their rules vary and many are entirely subject to your credit scores. Keep in mind that almost all lending institutions are in some disarray right now and even well-qualified folks are having difficulty getting loans.Have you thought about getting an older bike that is within your budget? Having a bike with no payment will not only result in lower purchase price and no interest, it will also deeply cut your insurance costs. Just a thought.
Personally, I think it’s a poor financial decision to pay interest on any asset with decreasing value. I admit to having done so in my misinformed youth, but I’ve since learned that high interest loans on vehicle don’t allow you to afford them, they just hide the fact that you can’t afford it and add fuel to fire. OK- end of my fiscal sermon. Hope one of my earlier statements is helpful.
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