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RabParticipant
From what I’ve seen and heard, the SV650 is enough bike for pretty much any sane application; regardless of experience level.
Sorry to be a killjoy, but in my book, “power wheelies” and “responsibly” don’t go together.
If you learn to wheelie, sooner or later you’re going to start doing it on public roads, endangering not only yourself but all other road users and pedestrians around you.
The only reason I can think of for anyone wanting to learn to do wheelies, stoppies, flamingoes, superman (Rollie Free), etc. is if they’re going to join the circus.
RabParticipantI guess the difference is due to geographical location? The S.F. Bay Area is expensive.
The reason for the 500 mile “running-in” period, is that the new engine components don’t fit each other exactly, so have to wear into each other to “mate” for a close fit.
The manuals say that if you over-rev a new engine, it’s possible that the friction created in the new parts could cause the engine to overheat and sieze (and that could really spoil your day).
Modern engine parts are built to much higher tolerances than in the past so it’s not quite as necessary nowadays as it once was, but follow the advice (varying engine speed by changing gear) for safety and engine longevity.
RabParticipantRider magazine said about this bike, “If you’ve ridden one of the GSX-Rs before, you’ll feel the GSX’s extra 100-plus pounds when changing direction quickly; if not, you’re none the wiser and just forget we mentioned it here!”.
http://www.ridermagazine.com/output.cfm?id=1520209
I actually went to the dealership intent on buying a Wee Strom for my freeway commutercycle / week-end adventurer, but having sat on them both, the GSX650F just felt more comfortable. I’m getting ~52 m.p.g. on my mostly freeway commute.
Like I said, I wouldn’t recommend it as a beginner bike either, even though it’s described as an “entry level” sport bike.
RabParticipantI own a GSX650F.
The GSX650F is the well established European model Suzuki Bandit with a full fairing; new (in the USA anyway) for the 2008 model year. It’s essentially a tricked-out, sporty, standard, the total of which is more than the sum of its parts. It would also make an ideal low-cost sport tourer (Hard luggage and racks are available for it from Givi, etc. – see http://www.twistedthrottle.com).
While I wouldn’t recommend any 650 twin or I-4 as a beginner bike (especially a fully faired one), I believe that the GSX650F is as user friendly as any other 650. With its friendly gear ratios, it can be ridden mildly if you so choose. If you twist the throttle, then the bike will immediately start moving faster in a very linear way, almost like a rheostat, or turning a faucet more on or more off; there are no “oh sh*t” moments as you hit a particular rev range and it suddenly pulls your arms out of their sockets like some real sport bikes. It won’t wheelie without you trying to either (which suits me just fine).
The “weight issue” is a complete non-issue on this bike as it doesn’t feel heavy at all due to the low center of gravity (and yes, the weight is due to the traditional steel, double-cradle frame). In real-life motorcycling, the weight is actually an advantage and it *does* truly increase the stability and wind resistance of the bike (a big deal on my freeway and bridge commute). The roadholding on this bike is nothing short of amazing; it just feels so safe and secure at any speed. It’s no slouch either and you’ll be at 100 m.p.h. without realizing it (top speed reportedly 130-138 m.p.h.). The engine doesn’t even notice when you have a passenger on the back; very torquey for an I-4. SV650 0-60 in 3.5 seconds, GSX650F 0-60 in 3.8 seconds.
No, your Ricky Racers won’t appreciate this bike, as going fast on this bike, doesn’t feel like you’re going fast, if feels like safe, comfortable and secure.
Read the press reviews (all glowing) and take what the internet forum “experts” say with a handfull of salt. Most of ’em have never even seen a GSX650F in the flesh let alone ridden one.
RabParticipantI’ve just recently had the first (600 mile) service done on my Suzuki GSX650F (my third motorcycle BTW) and I strongly suspect that it’s “just an overpriced oil change and cable check” as you say; especially as I had accumulated the 600 miles about 10 days after leaving the dealership (I commute).
I would say that the oil and filter change are essential, and the chain lube and adjustment (if necessary) should also be done. You could also make sure all fasteners are tight and lube cables/check free-play too. Other than that, in my opinion, it depends how long it takes you to accumulate the miles. That said, you are the arbiter of your own safety in this regard.
For peace of mind, if you can afford it, get the service done at the dealership. If not, then at very least do what I’ve outlined above.
I would say that the subsequent services (every 3K or 4K or whatever) are essential for safety.
In between times, clean and lubricate your chain every 500 miles, check and adjust the chain tension (if necessary) at the same time and regularly inspect your tires, brake pads and fluid levels.
My recent first service (S.F. Bay Area) cost $229 and that was with their 10% off labor “deal” (normally $110 an hour).
RabParticipant“the coldest winter I ever spent, was summer in San Fransisco”
It’s actually a famous(?) quote, supposedly said by Mark Twain.
RabParticipantIf you mean the engine jumps up to 8000 revs and the bike doesn’t immediately go any (or much) faster, then I think it’s a slipping clutch. It’s probably worse going up a hill and/or in the higher gears (under increased load) if it is.
Could be worn-out clutch plates or springs or it might just need adjusting.
Find out if you can adjust the clutch on your bike and adjust the cable free-play while you’re at it. You may need to replace the fiber clutch plates and/or springs though. The clutch plates are basically a consumable, like brake pads, and do wear over time.
August 10, 2008 at 5:47 pm in reply to: Riding with one or two fingers on brake lever: for or against? #10173RabParticipantCovering the front brake in traffic sounds like, and may well be (?), good practice. The idea being that it gives you a split second advantage to begin braking in a “panic” situation.
Personally, I don’t do it though. First of all, it feels very awkward to me, and I feel as if I have a little less control of the bike when my right hand is split like that. Also, on my bike, a two fingered pull doesn’t exert that much of a braking force, so in a panic situation, I’d have to (in a controlled and progressive manner of course), ‘”grab a handfull” anyway.
Better to ride responsibly, within your limits, trying to anticipate and avoid panic situations in the first place.
I know, I know… not always possible; especially since the advent of the cell-phone, the invasion of the untrained, unlicensed, uninsured (and uninvited and unwanted) illegal alien drivers, and the general dumbing-down of America.
If it works for you, go for it, if it doesn’t, don’t…
RabParticipantCongrats on the “new” bike.
17,000 isn’t high mileage for a Honda Rebel if it’s had the oil changed now and again. It should still have plenty of life left in it and 100,000 miles is not unheard of in those li’l Honda 234 c.c. air-cooled engines.
It’s just that here in the U.S.A. most folks don’t ride their motorcycles for transport, just for playing or posing on, hence the large number of older bikes with really low miles.
BTW: There is nothing nerdy about being white, in fact, we invented the entire modern world, and *tartan* shirts (plaid is a blanket) are totally cool dude. In fact *you’re* cool dude, all we daredevil motorcyclists are
RabParticipantWell said… and you’re right. It *does* do all you need if, like me, you consider a motorcycle as being transport and/or fun, not an extension of the ego. Actually, I think we’re in the minority on that one; at least here in the U.S.A.
In my opinion, unless you’re touring across the country two-up, or plan to be a motorcycle racer, anything bigger/faster would just be a needless (and expensive) vanity purchase. Nothing wrong with that if you can afford it I guess, but at least recognize it for what it is.
Don’t be suckered by the advertising hype. Keep motorcycling in perspective and save your money for other things.
Rab (currently Suzuki GSX650F owner).
RabParticipantMost motorcycle tires have wear marks molded into the treads. Quite often (but not always), the whereabouts of the wear marks is pointed to by little triangular “arrow-heads” on the sidewall.
The wear marks themselves are little bumps in the rubber at the bottom of the tread grooves. You won’t be able to see them on new tires, but as the tire tread wears away, you’ll see these little raised bumps at the base of the tread groove at a few places around the circumference of the tire. Once the tread is worn down level with the wear markers, then it’s *definitely* time to replace the tire (if not before).
Alternatively, if you have a tread depth guage, ignore the wear markers and replace the tires when there’s between 1 and 2 m.m. of tread left.
August 6, 2008 at 10:15 pm in reply to: Interesting Podcast on NPR Radio About Motorcycling and Motorcycling Issues #10004RabParticipantThanks for posting this, especially as I live in California and motorcycle-commute on freeways 4 days a week; lane-splitting a good part of the way.
We all need to be reminded periodically that it’s dangerous out there and that we need to ride responsibly.
I know I’ll ride home tonight more carefully and at a lower speed than I did last night due to listening to this program.
RabParticipantDigressing slightly, but you might be interested in the very active Yahoo Group “CB250_Nighthawk”.
RabParticipant‘ Sounds like you’re trying to steer the bike by using “Body English”. That’s old fashioned and doesn’t work very well.
On a motorcycle, at speeds under ~15 mph you turn the wheel to the left to go left and to the right to go right..
At speeds over ~15 mph, you need to countersteer.
Essentially, countersteering means you gently push on the handgrip in the direction you want to go. To turn right, push gently forward on the right grip. To turn left, push gently forward on the left grip. The harder you push the faster it leans over, so be very careful when first practicing this technique. I know this sounds counter-intuitive, but it does work and is what you need to learn to do in order to steer your bike accurately at speed.
RabParticipantYou beat me to it. I was going to say exactly the same thing.
Being cold and/or wet makes you ride faster (it’s true).
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