[Munch]

Not much on the sport bikes so I really can’t say much to that other then stick closer to the 250cc range being as green as you are. Definitely would not recommend your first ride being the one to get home. Get someone to ride it there for you or if it can be delivered for you so you can get acquainted with it on your own time and comfort.

[Munch]

{CHEER}Grats man…. let me know how it goes. Still kinda leary about ones around here. Maybe I am just getting old in my young age but the folks around these are looking more like I could handle when I was say 20-ish.

[Munch]

Grats!!! on both events!!

[Munch]

Check your MoM to see what your normal idle RPMs are. Neither my 500 or now my 900 had tach’s so I had to play it by ear alot. Fortunately my 900 is FI’ed

[Munch]

For my V500 it was carb’d
cold starts:
1) Pull choke all the way out…. get engine running… as it warms up the revs get higher
2) Go half choke after too much rpms to maintain decent non damaging rpms
3) After RPM’s start increasing a bit again go back to regular choke setting..off
4) Let motor run til regular idle RPM’s are acquired and move out
Some bikes can be damaged by taking off before the motor heats up as the oil still has not completely worked its way through the system and other conditions can occur like fuel mixtures. With the V500 you try to run the girl while she is still cold she will want to chug a bit, not cut out but drag a lil to let you know shes not ready for full speed. After you warm her up properly….she will run like you need her to.

[Munch]

A 900 is OK to start on… me personally I have about the stats as you except the age. Personally I started on the Vulcan 500 and it is quite more forgiving then 900 will be for you. I would personally suggest getting a 500 first. She is as quick as a bigger bike but the pwer band and torque is more beginner friendly. Not to mention she about 200 lbs lighter which will help getting you used to parking lot maneuvers and U-turns. I rode my 500 for about 6 months before I jumped up to the 900 and quickly realized that I had made the right decision with the 500 first. At highway speeds the 500 will keep up and pass the bigger bikes if needed.
Start with a 500 there should be some used ones around that won’t hurt your wallet but will gain you much needed experience to handle the heavier 900. I am running late for work but somewhere on here is a post where I got my 900. You can also read that to get my first impressions. Good Luck and stay safe!

[Munch]

Welcome! Glad to see your off on the right foot from the get go. Hope you riding gets to be everything you hope it is for ya!

[Munch]

That’s going to depend on how long its been since you last oiled it, and how bad the rust has penetrated. Take a good look at the full length of the chain and see if its dimpled any… also give it some up and down movement to see if there is any stiffness in the movement. Not from the tensioner but from rust pinching the links. If its still easily movable then I highly suggest a good lubing and slow rides through parking lots to get the oil worked back through. Next time also make sure to try and keep oil on it anytime rain comes near.
Any time a bike is ridden in the rain most MoM’s I have seen recommends an oiling before riding anyways.

[Munch]

OK ok…. I gotta say it…. just cowboy up and hammer at it. If there is any time you don’t feel a tinge of caution, which is likely what your feeling seeing that your getting on still, your becoming dangerous to you and some around you. Just my personal opinion. Confidence is great in riding …. but conceit that you know what you are doing turns quickly into disaster.

[Munch]

That would have truly sucked!

[Munch]

As far as rain gear goes…nothing over the top, simple… frogg toggs is what I use…. they are pull overs. I keep them in my saddle bags all the time. Here in the south… an afternoon rainstorm is all but guaranteed. You will have a rather short riding season if you let rain stop ya. As far as hydroplaning…. I have yet to get mine to do it…just slow your speed a touch and you should be good. Your tires are more pizza cutters for water then a cars tires are. Just stay in the left tire track of the car in front and drop that 2 second following distance to about 5+ .You will need to watch painted spots and steel covers, grates, draw bridge segments etc too if you plan on turning.
Other then that… the riding is the same for me. Visibility only gets limited if your following too closely. That and I use a water repellant on my face shield.

[Munch]

One thing I do with my 900 is under the seat is the control module for the fuel injection all I do is lift the seat pull the connector and it disables the FI which equals no gas no go. The seat also locks down into place via a key. Also keep the Handle bar locked any time the bike is parked. As a third precaution I use a plastic coated cable to wrap around my bike to make it even more inconvenient. Rule of thumb…if its inconvenient for you… it will be doubley worse for the would be thief who’s whole deal is based on speed.
Another precaution is Lo-Jack. This one is slightly expensive but for the piece of mind pays for itself. It doesn’t stop thieves but gives your chances of getting it back a tremendous jump.
There are locks and cables designed just for motorcycles that have “Disc Lock” deals on them and some even have an audible deterrent. Look in places like Cyclegear.com , Scootworks or motorcyclesuperstore.com ….they all should and do have some kind of security measures you can take.
Get to know the workings of the bike you chose and figure a way to mechanically disable it one way or another.

[Munch]

Your kinda trading off one for the other in that comparison.
Leather is best abrasion resistant material so far. Can suck in heat though… even the so called perforated and vented. Textile/mesh is great for air circulation but you throw in padding or something like Bohn armor and you can effectively kill the idea behind those.
I ride with a Textile jacket in the summer that has the CE approved armor. Its more for the abrasion then it is effectively trying to stop from getting bruises and breaks as 90% of my rides are 70+ mph. This past summer I wore just jeans but I now have some chaps to go over that…. if it gets to hot I will be looking into the Draggin Jeans. Luckily I am a mechanic and my boots don’t matter..but I have Vega Touring and they feel more like slippers then what you would think a riding boot would. They are very comfortable, very adjustable, mildly water proof and they have a nice piece of re enforced…..something at the shin for those rocks that get kicked up from time to time.
Truth be told your going to have to see what makes sense to you and your comfort. You know your tolerance for heat and cold and how your body reacts to each. If you are prone to excessive sweat.. and a business person…. a camry might be your best option….lol….just picking….sorta.

[Munch]

Welcome! good luck on MSF!

[Munch]

Jackets and pants over armor…. yea..especially with the Bohn Armor….after all thats one of their selling points. Wether or not its incorporated or seperate from the gear.. personal preference.
One thing I want to guard you against…
“and because I want to take the upmost precautions while riding
to guarantee safety,” …… there is no guarantees. Even the armor is limited protection. The sooner you remove any idea of this the more safe you can actually make yourself, other then that you are obtaining a false sense of security with a painful wake up call to reality.

[Author]

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