[Munch]

“- With new cars, during transportation and storage, the tires are “super-inflated” way pass the max pressure on the sidewall to prevent the tire rubber from taking a set (permanent deformation) from sitting around in the same position for a long time.”

….no load…no heat build up and no impacts. In fact those very tires are only expected to last at best 30K miles. Ask your dealer why there is no warranty (without purchase) of tires on new vehicles. They are not designed to last, they are only designed to snag you as a customer for the comfort and quiet that you get initially and with a safe performance. However not on a mileage aspect. However a car tire is a poor example in relation to motorcycle tires as the demands and structure and compounds are very different.

“- I disagree that a tire would pop when impacted at rated max load pressure; that’s a law suit for the tire mfr. ” …… counter point… the reason for stamping that their is to CTOA! At any given time a point of failure happens and they can find a way to prove you’ve exceeded their recommended pressures…. end game.

I can go on all day about tires as that is my job and business. However like most things in life it is highly debated and beat into the ground. I work in the industry and see the results from real life and not media coverage or lab tests. My only recommendation is to follow your MoM and use common sense when choosing both your tire (make/tread purpose/speed rating/load rating etc. ) and your air pressures. If you decide to deviate from those (as I myself have) make sure you dig into real life, real practice examples to help you decide.

[Munch]

Actually …don’t!….. the pressures on the sidewall is max…. meaning all they recommend that the tire can safely hold ….. add pot holes and other such impacts and you put yourself in a hard position. Think of your tire as a balloon, full it slam full of air and the clap it with your hands. Did it pop? If your tires are already at max pressure (which yes I am aware they understate it intentionally) and hit an impact…. that pressure has to go somewhere and if there is no more expansion room left in the or around the tire itself…….. guess where is left…. OUT.
Some companies play it safe and under rate the pressure, thats to help keep the mis informed “safe” , however they cannot compensate for the rate at which an impact can/will hit a tire if over inflated.
I know in other forums there are statements of better performance at higher pressures. Let them be the guinea pigs. And also make sure of what tire they are using the higher pressures in. Not all tires are created equal!

[Munch]

Grit is not to be confused with intelligence…. or the lack there of . Hopefully his ride is just merely at the outskirts of town and not out in the wilderness.

[Munch]

you know its expensive…… no prices to be found on the site!

[Munch]

Careful Eon…. your slowly stepping into the “Cruiser guy” mentality

[Munch]

Depends on locale. Some require you to bring just gloves and over the ankle shoes, with long sleeves. I have heard of some go as far as needing your own helmet to. Call the location that your taking it and get them to answer that for you. And yes, you will be riding the bikes they provide you , unless your taking the advanced course by accident. In which case your first clue will be….well your the only cage in the parking lot.

[Munch]

Now what’s the point in not getting complicated? Some of your best information is found through debate and discussion. :^P I am sure Paul found his answer 6 paragraphs ago. If we all kept the answers so simple….. well…..the forum would be boring and un informative and more like taking the SAT’s.

[Munch]

Its funny that you post that as I work for Bridgestone/Firestone. Ever been to one…..ever wonder why no corporate stores carry the nitro fill system? It’s more or less a crap deal. All of that article is true only if you put the tire under a full vacuum after mounting the tire to the rim and back filling it with the nitrogen air.
Not only that but the first time you change the pressure at any location that does not have nitrofil tanks (usually at a cost of near $3 a tire) it became a moot point. Not to mention especially in MC applications….the tire is not on the bike long enough to become a fact for the contained air to cause “rust and corrosion”. Usually its from amateur mounting/dismounting practices that gouge or cut the protective finishes on the rim off.

BUT…..I am not an official spokes person and do not speak for Brdigestone/Firestone

[Munch]

As for the comment…yes I misunderstood…. and though the size of the tire is to accomplish a certain look it still does not change the fact that tire pressures are varying with application, make, and various other things.

[Munch]

“Lots of times their tire selections are more for the “looks”, right?”

Absolutely incorrect.

Tread patterns have varying degrees of purpose….more forward bite, more side traction, noise reduction, stability within the tire structure etc. There is a whole world of things that define tires and tread design. Not to mention the compounds that are used on the “rubber” part, all the way down to wether or not they use a biased ply or radial….. and if radial wether its traditional steel belted or using a different cording. Ever wonder why 99% of motorcycle tires are directional? Not just cause it looks “cool” but it gives the engineers a better degree of traction control and stability. Easier to predict how something is going to react to abrasion and heat when going one direction the having to figure in both. Look at Bridgestone and Michellin…. both are offering a 3 compound 3 section tread on their tires. A harder compound in the middle for life of straight highway riding softer on the edges for maximum (for that tire) traction in turns. These are not just sales points (though good ones) these are actual facts of the product and need.

[Munch]

Well let me be the exception to that rule then… I have to run 36 ft / 40 rear. Due to extended highway runs over 75+mph.
Not all lighter bikes have narrower tires etc. A Vulcan 900 is best example. The custom has a front tire half the width of the Classic Lt though the bike is the same size and weight. Not all tires are created equal either, goes well past just the brand but also the intended use. It depends on the structure of the carcass and the compounds used in the tire.
Like I said before some Manu’s will specify product particular information like Metzelers. Where they give you a starting range and inform you to bump it up to X amount of PSI if a certain speed is expected to be traveled.
I like the thought of 87 degrees being fair weather though… have to keep that in my head as I stare at the snow.
THE absolute best you can do is start with the bikes recommendations…. check with the manufacturer of the tire to see if they have any ideal options listed on their site. IF there are none use your own powers of deduction… just would not got BELOW the bikes original specs.

[Munch]

Eternal is correct……. Except…… The manu tire specs are for the OE tires that came with the bike. Assuming you listen to the MoM and don’t tear the tags off pillow cases and such you will never have a different tire on the bike and will be in the good for what t hey call for, BUT, if your like some of us “outlaws” and like trying things out for your self then once you replace your tire or even better to do it before hand…check with the TIRE manufacturer to see what their recommendations are for the application. THis also holds true for automobiles …..though they are less then giving on the information.
My 9 came with Dunflop OE 404 something others…. lasted maybe 4 thousand miles on the rear. Jumped to the Metzelers that were highly recommended. Now Dunflop are the OE and the bike recommends 32 psi in the rear….really soft ride. Go to Metzelers web site and for their tires they recommend a higher pressure. Somewhere around about up to 40 psi.
Tires are always a point of contention with people. ..Do I go higher, lower, or what the MoM says. I always tell people the answer is “Yes”. Watch your tire wear and your pressure (Cold is sitting 3 hours without moving) and compare. If you don’t have that luxury generally add about 4 to 6 psi for warm…. rode on tires…..meaning the air expand once heated adding pressure….so if it is readin 45 psi …..cold will be around 42–ish cold.

[Munch]

Grats!…earplugs for the revs…..and more riding for the lack of umph. It’s important to get the basic skillz down but it is also a good idea to push yourself a little every now and again.

[Munch]

Well as far as cruisers go Eternal would be correct on my first recommendation. In my area I actually wish I would have kept mine as Kawi had quit making them and they are hard as all get out to find. My youngest daughter wants to start riding soon to. I am 5’10” so the extra 2 inches wouldn’t be much of a bother for you. Depending if that 2 inches is in your upper body or legs. However any forward control adjustments can be had to help. Others on the list would a V-Star 650. Not too much bigger of a bike. If I remember correctly a little more leg room. Honda has a 750 that would also be a good starter.
You have to remember cruisers are built different from street/sport bikes. They are not intended to be the fast and furious, though like any horse, you lay into it and it will go! Most of your power is in the lower end, or rather the beginning of the gear to get the bike going and up to speed. The general styling of a cruiser is to …..well….. cruise. Not much top end needed to do that. Going up to the Honda 750 would be about as far as I personally would recommend as a beginner. I went from my Vulcan 500 to my now Vulcan 900 Classic LT. Let me tell you the first thing I get is “It’s only 400cc more” . That’s a HUGE difference. Equate it to going from lets say a 2.2 Chevy Crapalier….Cavalier…to a 3.8 Chevy Monte Carlo.
When getting one, your first and absolute imperative goal should be slow speed maneuvers. This is with any bike but especially for cruisers. They are longer bikers (for highway stability) and can be like a Cadillac in tight spaces. Meaning they don’t turn on a dime for a rookie. Get used to the dynamics of the bike. Get the video “Ride like a Pro” and Practice. I laugh when ever I see guys/gals near my mechanic shop ride through the mall because they can’t do a u-turn on their bikes. And all types have been through there lemme tell ya.

[Munch]

Congrats!!! If your anything like me your already scheming to try and get it earlier!…oh yea…. Pics ….. after drooling over it for …I dunno….an hour or so…. we must have pics!

[Author]

Posts