[Matt]

If you ever move up to the Gold Wing world of massive tourers, you can get factory installed seat heaters too!
I’ve never seen an aftermarket bum heater though…
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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

On my ERC course they tought that a very minor wiggle of the front headlight is enough to get the other drivers attention.
If you have a fork mounted headlight (one that turns when you turn your handlebars) you can do it with a very subtle weave (bike stays almost straigh, but the hotspot of the headlight moves a few feet to each side). On a fairing mounted light (like the Ninja) where you need to turn the entire bike, it isn’t worth it since the weave has to be too exagerated.

Retro-reflective (aka safety) vests are a good investment.

Modulating brake lights do exactly what you are doing – they flash thebrake lights whenever the brake light is on. A quick tap of the brakes before you apply them in ernest (just to wake up a driver behind you) and a quick flash of them when stopped as someone comes towards you are good enough imo (especialy given the inconsistent legality of it).

—
“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

Got a bit of an “oh crap” moment today when I passed through a construction zone. A water truck had been leaking a small srpay of water into the tire paths of the cars – and had frozen. Okay, careful ridding down the centre of the lane and watch out for any corners…

Good ride other than that.

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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

Put some stablizer in the gas, and take a short ride (if possible) to distribute it evenly and have some sink into the carbs. You definitely want some stabilizer in the carbs.

Disconnect the battery and put it on a tender (or at least disconnect it and top up the charge on a regular charger one or twice over the course of the winter, making sure it is fully juiced when you start the season).

Put aluminum foil over the exhuast pipe ends so no rodents make a home in your mufflers (if there is a chance of it).

A couple of times over the winter put it in top gear and roll it back and forth in the garage to keep the pistons from staying in the exact same spot all winter.

Remember to change the oil in the spring (small amounts of water will condense in the engine over the winter, and you don’t want water in your engine oil).

That should basically cover it I think. There are probably a few other little things I’m forgetting…

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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

I certainly understand the concept behind wanting music on a ride, but I’ve found that I don’t really mind not having it. Long freeyway/interstate type rides could really use it, but then, I consider that an excuse not to ride those roads

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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

I just rode in with teh air temp hanging in it 45F (7C) and drizzle.
Let me tell you, these hot-weather short cuff perforated leather gloves just aren’t doing it for me!

Time for some cold weather gauntlets!

[Matt]

My lowest Mileage was about 50mpg, I mostly get above 60.

What are your cruising RPMs and your shift points?

In traffic (at or below 60kph / 40mph) I tend to ride between 5000rpm and 6000rpm. As I accelerate I let it get up to about 6500-7000 and then shift, once I reach my speed I go up until I’m cruising at the above speed.

Going any faster and I find the engine doesn’t like being below 6000rpm, so I cruise at 6000-7000 and accelerate with shifts happening between 7000 and 8000. Of course, if I’m feeling a little quicker I’ll hold off shifting until 9k-11k.

I’ve got a slightly different engine than you (tuned for a bit more top end power at the expense of mid range torque) but I think our shifting should be very similar. The newer 250Rs can probably get away with a bit lower cruising rpms.

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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

While I’d never own a little 50cc scooter, I love seeing them on the road.
The bigger Burgmans are getting to be really popular around here with the touring crowd (have three of them in my work parking lot, the guys love ’em as a perfect bike for long distance touring and commuting in city traffic).

But the MP3, that thing is just a marvel of technology. I love it. Congrats on getting the most stable bike short of a Can Am Spyder

Oh, and if anyone gives you gruff for having a trike – Harley just submitted a patent for a Cruiser that is half-way between the MP3 and a CanAm Spyder…
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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

Yup, happens all the time, and Rupmisc has it right: Being angry beats being hurt any day of the week.
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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

I’ve ridden in zero C (32F) and found it surprisingly doable. Long uderwear and layers helps a lot.
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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

The sense of acceleration on a Shadow 600 isn’t much more than the 250 – might even feel slower just because the bike has such a lazy way of going about it (only 4 gears). But things do happen faster on it, and it is more of a handful at low speeds.

Keep the rebel for a bit, get good and comfy with her, then pass her on to the next owner and move up. You won’t lose much (if any) money if you sell her in the spring.
I’m willing to bet you could move up to an Areo (750 – skip the 600) with little issue after a few thousand miles on a Rebel. hmm shaft-drive (I’m starting to get sick of forgetting to oil my chain )

I think you’re going to find that the feeling of acceleration is as much dependant on the model of bike as the displacement, some just feel fast, others feel slow – and often the two perceptions don’t jive 100% with reality.
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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

Ducatis are different from most other bikes, they don’t use a wet clutch, they use a dry clutch just like a car’s, which means you have to treat it just like a car’s.

You can slip the clutch to control your speed, but only a very low speeds, and only for a short period of time.

Several older european bikes (70s Moto Morini and BMW) also used Dry Clutches. Two guys at my ERC course had them, the bikes DID NOT like the extended low speed maneauvers.

“A day without a surprise is a day you didn’t spend riding a Ducati”

I don’t know the reason *why* Ducati uses dry clutches… are they more efficient or lighter? Anyone know?

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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

Checkout advrider.com they have an entire section to Hacks (aka sidecars). Lots of sidecar drivers there. I kinda like idea of a motorcycle that can be safely ridden in snow…
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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Matt]

Ninjas 250 in particular, but 500 also need their valves adjusted at the service. It has to do with they style of valve adjustment and the factory production method. Basically they can tighten up a lot in the first five hundred miles. After that they are good for thousands of miles at a time, but the first check is important.
MOST of the bikes won’t need any adjustment, but for the few that do, things cna go seriously wrong (valves welding themselves to the block!) if they aren’t adjusted.
So, just to be on the safe side, follow that first service interval and don’t skip anything

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“The two seconds between ‘Oh S**!’ and the crash isn’t a lot of practice time.”

[Author]

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