[Jiriki]

most of my ‘riding adventures’ are commuting… let me know if you go for a ride like this in the future, i’d join for sure…

[Jiriki]

it is a full exhaust (area p, quiet option)… however, a ton of people are re-jetting their 250s for peak power, power @ lower rpm, and overall bike usability…

usable range goes from 6-10k to 3-12k or so…

it is also supposed to help with a cold engine…. right now, there is an unpredictable “will it move?” moment when you are leaving from a stop sign with a cold engine. This is kind of freaky when turning out in front of a car… about 60% of the time it will happily go quickly, but 40% of the time it will completely bog down and slowly chug you into traffic…

also, if you are going to change your sprockets to reduce RPM @ highways speeds, you’ll really want the extra 2-3hp you’d get from rejetting + exhaust…

anyways, trying to figure out finances.. if i could get help from a forum member, then i’d be able to install sooner…

bbm sponsored 250?

[Jiriki]

so.. on the 250R, your footpeg has a 2″ rod (covered in rubber) that extends at 30 degrees towards the ground below your peg… if this touches the ground, it bends up your footpeg around its movable joint to the frame… no warping of your frame or anything catastrophic

yes, you are not supposed to scratch hardparts… yes, these parts can get caught on anything in the road and tumble you over… yes, scratching hard parts means you are doing something wrong… no, i don’t try to scratch my pegs… i have only scratched it once, when I was practicing my first u-turn on my own bike…

oh, and if you took the MSF course, you really should know about all the types of turns that kick talked about… another reason to take the MSF…

edit:
consumable = meant to be ground down… from reading the other posts, it looks more like the feelers are a warning and really shouldn’t touch…

[Jiriki]

the shiny stuff is mold release… it is also on any tire you buy (for cages too)… there may be stuff that dealers put on to make the tires look shiny, but the mold release (which makes the tires easy to come out of the mold) is what is really slippery.

just go sloooww and gradually increase lean angle…. if you go straight for a few miles, then it rubs off the centre line…. then you are basically trying to gradually increase the area that has been scrubbed off….

as i said before, you will need to do this when you replace tires too… not just from dealer… this situation is probably worse, as you will know your bike and expect it to perform as it has for the last 10k miles… whereas with a new bike you will probably take it easy anyways

edit: the dealer i bought the bike from went over the procedure to get rid of the mold release and reminded me like 6 times before I left… maybe because I was a new rider?

[Jiriki]

guessing kick scratched the feeler and had the peg bend up… not sure whether or not that is considered a consumable…

[Jiriki]

i am getting about 60 mpg… more if i ride less aggressively…

[Jiriki]

how bad was the torque loss?

[Jiriki]

i have the 250R Ninja (08) and I am happy I got the smaller displacement… for me, the steepest learning curve was in the first week or two… I wasn’t shifting very well and was dropping the clutch… i actually put it into first from neutral without pulling in the clutch… that was fun

I am now much more confident with the acceleration/deceleration/balance/shifting and I have a ton of fun in the cali mountain twisties… that being said, I will probably move to a large bike (Ninja 500/SV650S/not litre bike) after 10k miles or so. At that point, I think I will have learned what I need to be safe on a larger bike and will enjoy having the larger tires/brakes and better throttle response on the highways.

oh, and it does go faster than 80, it just screams like a mofo… i try to keep it below 80 because I feel sorry for the bike

[Jiriki]

yeah, spaz is right… check if there is a line…

that being said, it is physically impossible for me to overfill my tank, because i fill it when it is leaned over (on the kickstand )… fuel gauge never reads above 7/8s once it is righted again…

[Jiriki]

bikes don’t like to be cold… if it is, it’ll let you know by jerking you around…

2 ways to help get rid of jerkiness:
1. leave the choke partially engaged.
2. give it more gas and feather the clutch as needed

well, really 3. let it warm up!

[Jiriki]

in those *rare* times that I edge over the speed limit to pass a truck in my 250R, i feel sorry for the little engine as it screams

[Jiriki]

08 250R has two fasteners under the rear seat as well…

[Jiriki]

you can get 2″ strips all over the place (just search online)… if you want to do panels (like I do), then your best bet is to get some from ebay… this works especially well if it is a group buy.. hint hint

anyways, this was pretty much my inspiration:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239228

scroll to bottom to see pics at night

[Jiriki]

if it is the 08 250, you only have an exhaust pipe on one side, so use the other side helmet lock

[Jiriki]

I am kinda thinking of going over the top for visibility, because I find myself riding a lot at night and i’ve had a lot of cars not notice that I exist (with a blue bike & white/blue gear, with a Halo on my helmet)…

I was going to add 3M reflective tape to the side of my bike in pretty big sheets. It looks grey/white int he day and blinding white at night.. this is the same material as speed limit signs. I’ve seen a couple bikes done up like this, and they look great. It would also be nice to have a slightly different bike than all those 250s that are showing up

If I really have a lot of time and am still having to avoid blind drivers, I was thinking of putting some EL strips onto my jacket… basically this is the same stuff that Daft Punk use and you’d be riding around looking like you’re from Tron.

[Author]

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