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eternal05
ParticipantI think we more or less agree. The thing is, when it’s cold (say high 40s F), my Ninja would take a LOT longer than 30 seconds to warm up at all. I’d have to idle it for minutes for it to be ready for no-choke riding. If I give it choke and trundle it around for a block or two it’s warm and ready to go.
eternal05
ParticipantIf you can’t ride anywhere at all (even a block or two) before you have to really gas it, then yes, you’ll need to idle it for a bit. Even those of us in the school of “get moving right away” emphasize that if you get out on the road quickly, you need to be VERY gentle on the throttle until the bike warms up. That means both low revs and very little throttle use.
Also, about the link, click on it instead of copying/pasting. The post system truncated the displayed text (see the “…” at the end?), but I just tried and the page you get when you click on it is the correct one.
eternal05
ParticipantBasically the answer is that the advantage doesn’t come from height but rather from upper body position (i.e. the explanation in the pic isn’t quite honest). Rider #5 is shifting the weight of his upper body horizontally: into the turn. Rider #4 is lower, but isn’t leaning into the corner (i.e. body lean, not bike lean) at all. His center of gravity is still over his gas tank. Make sense?
October 2, 2009 at 7:46 am in reply to: Sandbaggin’ in B group. Zoom Zoom 09.26.2009 @Thunderhill. #22636eternal05
ParticipantI’m workin’ on it….JEEZ.
Nah, in all honesty, it’s taken me a couple of track days to get the video thing figured out. I’m leaving for another one in a few hours (yeah I know…gotta get some sleep, but I’m like a kid on christmas eve every time), and hopefully I’ll be able to get it right this time.
eternal05
ParticipantI demand as a user of your freely provided service that you devote your rare moments of spare time to satisfying my every whim.
Oh, and you won’t be compensated. Get to it.
eternal05
ParticipantTaking the MSF course will also give you a chance to ride, not sit on, but actually RIDE the 250s that you might otherwise consider buying. This is a great way to make an informed decision.
eternal05
ParticipantAs Munch says, opinions about carbureted bikes vary. While I’d agree with him to get your bike warm before you hit heavy traffic, leaving your bike idling is not good for it and won’t warm it up very fast. Internal combustion vehicles (most cars, bikes, busses, etc.) warm up MUCH faster under load than they do simply idling. As an experiment, the next time you drive a car with a temperature gauge on a cold day, try two different things when starting out. First, sit there and idle until the temp needle hits the standard operating temperature. You’ll be there all day. Next, don’t “warm it up” at all. Turn it on and SLOWLY start driving around. I said under load, but make it a light load! Your car will warm right up in a minute.
The trick is to ride around a bit until your engine warms up. In a car it’s no big deal. On a bike, not having the expected tug from your engine could mean a drop, a collision, or some other not-so-happy occurrence. The first few blocks around my house are all residential, so I just ride around at about 10-15mph for a minute (literally, a minute) and the bike is good to go. Here’s the goods:http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_is_the_correct_way_to_apply_choke_at_startup%3F
October 1, 2009 at 6:32 pm in reply to: Sandbaggin’ in B group. Zoom Zoom 09.26.2009 @Thunderhill. #22624eternal05
ParticipantDoes brake fluid lose effectiveness when it gets warm? How did I not know about this? Crap. Explains a thing or two
eternal05
ParticipantEverybody has conflicting opinions, and even at relatively high levels (expert club racers, AMA racers) people will tell you things that are completely in contradiction with the current standards. I have a friend who races who always used to tell me “stick your dick in the tank” (not the most tactful fellow). This is not right at all as it causes you to pivot your hips around the tank when you hang off, leading to “crossed up” body position (where your body is actually facing the wrong way). Yet he’s an expert club racer and pulls MUCH faster times around our local circuits than I do. Probably has something to do with those big ones he carts around
Keith Code is a very successful riding coach, but I find he isn’t the best with words. While he has all the right things to say, he often doesn’t say them very well, leaving you confused. His European disciple, Andy Ibbott, on the other hand, is very clear and concise in his explanations. He runs all of the California Superbike School locations in Europe, and was featured on the UK TV show “Superbike School.” The series itself was actually a waste of time after watching the little teasers on YouTube. All the good info is there. Here’s one on proper body positioning and moving around the bike:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zt9lB-LErQ4
If you’re interested in a layman’s introduction to high-performance riding, including an introduction to the world of racing, this book is fantastic. Great explanations, and lots of awesome and huge color photos. I have the first edition, but an updated second edition is available for pre-order:
Oh, and on the note of “big ones,” one of the funniest things I’ve seen on a forum was over at gsxr.com (a WHOLLY different experience from this lovely establishment…can you say overpopulation of squiddly squid?):
Guy #1 (paraphrased): Hay guyz mai lap times iz slow but I wanna get super fast!!!1 K THX BYE
Guy #2: So what you’re going to want to do is head over to Home Depot and pick yourself up a nice pair of man hands and a sack o’ nuts. Should take care of that for you.
eternal05
ParticipantThis is also happening in the body position thread in General.
eternal05
ParticipantI think the first two pictures are particularly instructive. I’m not so onboard with the rest of them. Here’s why:
Pic #3: This is not how you hang off. This rider has scooched is bum off of the seat, but otherwise is more or less riding like the rider in picture #1. In fact, Pic #5 is closer to actually hanging off (without hanging off), which is why the lean angle observed is also smaller. Most people are under the misconception that hanging off means putting your butt on the ground. On the contrary, you only move about one cheek off the seat. The REAL gain is that you can then hang your leg and, more importantly, your UPPER body off the side of the bike. Here’s the ol’ Hopkins example:Notice how much his upper body is pushed into the corner? Yes, he is down low for aerodynamics, something I wouldn’t advise on the street, but he is shifting the combined center of gravity of the bike/rider combination INTO the turn. That is what allows the bike to lean less.
Pic #4 and Pic #5: I would disagree with the caption on #5. I don’t think height is the key component. I think HEIGHT+LEAN is what’s important. Raising your center of gravity isn’t what allows the bike to become more upright. Using your bodyweight as a ballast into the turn allows the bike’s center of gravity to move into the turn. Think of it almost like trying to add an airborne sidecar on the inside of the turn: that inside weight forces the bike upright in order to maintain the same arc. Thus I think what’s happening is that, as a result of sitting up higher AND being leaned into the turn with his upper body, the rider in Pic #5 has a greater effect because he is using leverage to amplify the effect of his weight shift. The rider in Pic #4 isn’t out of line with the centerline of the bike, meaning that he isn’t using his weight effectively to help his bike around the corner.
This isn’t a particularly good picture, but I’m having trouble finding the angle I want with google image search, hence we’ll resort to…me.Notice how the bike isn’t leaned over very much? It is you say? Ok I admit, with the camber of the road, the offset of the photo, and my monkey pose, it might be difficult to see how much the bike is actually leaning. Just imagine drawing the normal (perpendicular line) to the ground at my tire and you’ll see it’s not a very big lean angle at all. It’s about the same as this:
Not very much. Now the punchline: I’m going about 90 mph right here, and turning pretty hard. The reason it looks so relaxed is because my bodyweight (1/2 the weight of the bike) is hanging on the inside of the turn. As you approach the limit of your bike/tires, lean angle increases dramatically. Another 5 mph through this turn and my knee wouldn’t be so far out, and it’d still be touching down.Anyway, I PERSONALLY think that hanging off is overkill on the street, for two reasons. First, you can get pretty firmly locked into the bike while hanging off, but that’s expecting a clear track, a known road, and otherwise predictable surroundings. On the street, you’ll hit bumps, have to suddenly stop for crazy kids throwing themselves in front of you, etc. Two knees slammed into the tank is always a firmer connection than one knee and a bunch of centripetal force. The other reason is that you occupy more horizontal real estate while hanging off than you would otherwise. This isn’t necessarily a benefit when you have limited lane space and the potential off snagging unexpected obstacles with your outstretched knee.
I absolutely encourage leaning with your upper body, however. The effects are dramatic, and as eon has said, it gives you a more upright bike, a larger tire contact patch, more room to turn if you need it, and ultimately more traction.
eternal05
ParticipantThat bike is pristine! You’ve got yourself a real ride there my friend. Enjoy, and be safe!
eternal05
ParticipantYou don’t want to use the choke when you don’t need it. When it won’t start up without choke, use as little choke as possible. You don’t want too rich a mixture hitting your engine or you risk flooding (too much gas, not enough air, won’t combust), etc.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flooded_engine
Also, once you do get the bike running on the choke, don’t forget to ween it off as soon as the bike runs on its own (which in my experience happens as soon as you get it moving). Get your bike warmed up with gentle riding for a few minutes before giving it the beans.
Good luck!
eternal05
ParticipantElwood mentioned this trailer in another thread so, for the sake of future readers, I wanted to add it here:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200244924_200244924
Also, I should mention that, if I were more skilled, I’d just go put one together myself. I keep reading other forums in which guys are just getting cheapo flatbeds and welding in wheel chocks, guard rails, restraints, etc. I wish I was that cool, but my school never had shop class, and the handy-iest I’ve ever gotten is installing a new sink or re-jetting my carbs. If you know of a good way to LEARN said skills, please let me know, but otherwise keep your suggestions for the welding-incapable.
eternal05
ParticipantHi-vis clothing is great, but you always have to ride like nobody sees you. Do everything you can to be seen (but NOT distracting), but at the end of the day, you will get ignored when it counts most. Be ready to react, and try to anticipate the worst things that any driver in your vicinity (i.e. within range of you in the next 3 seconds) might do and prepare an escape plan.
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