[Sean_D]

You see WAY to much of that. People always talk about cell phone use and texting, but I see just as much of the shifting through papers or jotting down notes while driving. This is particularly true of contractors and construction types. They are always conducting business on the commute from one job to the next. I had a friend who did some computer contracting. He was constantly on the cell phone jotting down notes and going back and forth between pages and papers in a notebook while he drove. That could just as easily have been him plowing into someone.

[Sean_D]

First I am glad you are overall happy with the Hood Jeans. I hate to recommend something and then have the buyer not be happy, particularly when they aren’t the cheapest option out there. Not as expensive as their sister company Kyrano Jeans though http://www.kyrano-uk.com/html/mens_jean.html . Kyrano Jeans are lined from waist to hem with Aramid, but cost is US $222.

As Eon mentions, they should have removed the VAT for you, but even with that removed they are more expensive than Shift, Draggin etc. I think Draggin Jeans are are maybe $25-30 less?

My previous experience with Hood Jeans was with the Concept 6 (or C-6) as they also call them. They have removed them from their site as they apparently have some sort of deal with the Aramid supplier to provide that model for wholesale, but they do still have a stock of Concept 6 jeans in house. You need to call to order them though. I have since ordered a pair of the K7 and I do find those to be more snug fitting than the Concept 6 jean. The K7 looks more the casual jean part without the stitching across the knees, but it does seem to fit a little more snug than the C-6. Maybe its the woven vs. knitted para- aramid that makes a difference here. The C-6 uses knitted which is teri-cloth like. It likely stretches and gives a little more.

The hip armor does feel very snug the first 3 or 4 times you wear the jean, but over time it molds well to the hip and you find you don’t really notice it. If you have only worn them a couple of times you will find it feels bulky and odd at first.

Also, if you are not happy with the fit they are good about exchanging them for the next size up. I am not too sure about after you have worn them, but they are a small family owned business and nice to deal with. I would suggest emailing Julie to see if there is anything she can do for you. You may be able to exchange them up a size if you like, but of course that means losing some money on shipping.

[Sean_D]

… and there are a couple of variations of the Bonneville to also look at. The Thuxton, which is the more Cafe styled Bonneville and the Scrambler. So there are a couple variations of that retro look without going toward the sport bike or the cruiser.

Also, the Norton Commando is another in the line of retro looking bikes. Both the Bonneville and the Norton are in the 860’s to 960’s cc range though, which is above your stated desire to find something in the 500-650 range.

[Sean_D]

.. is ISBNS.NET for comparative shopping for text books. The cost is definitely negligible for that. At least to the buyer it is free. Not sure what, if anything the sellers pay.

[Sean_D]

.. I had no issue with using the front brake. Maybe it was due to previous experience with bicycle riding, but I had no problem finding and using the front brake… the rear brake on the other hand? I had a hard time finding and using the rear brake at first.

During the first practice attempt I grabbed a hand full of front brake, missed the rear, the bike did a little stoppie, luckily coming squarely back down on the rear tire without dropping. But I quickly learned to find that rear brake and make use of it too

I think part of the problem could be attributed to the fact that I had heavy duty thick hiking boots on for the course. The height of the toe box and the fact I could’t feel much of anything outside the boot kind of made shifting and braking a leap of faith exercise when you are not really familiar with where the controls are.

[Sean_D]

… there are a lot of insurance companies out there. I believe that *most* of the major ones do. Gieco, Progressive, AllState, etc. do give a discount, for at least a few years. But there are a lot of lesser known ones out there as well. My insurance is through Progressive. I got a discount from them for passing it.

2) You may be right, but I would think there is a certain machismo in doing the course, doing it well and getting a good score as well. I know I had some pride in accomplishing it. Scored high n the riding and aced the written. But you are probably right that some folks fit into the other categories as well.

3) If you saved up $2000 for the bike of your dreams, I would think spending a little more for proper training (which is far cheaper than a repair), would be a worthwhile investment.

… I would agree that if you fall into category 2 or 3, then 1 is likely irrelevant. Mostly I agree with your last point.

[Sean_D]

… not only will you become a safer rider, you will get a discount on your insurance. Yes, there is the initial outlay of cash, but the course will pay for itself over time. I believe you only get the discount if you voluntarily take and pass the course, so waiting until you are forced to take isn’t of any benefit. Then you still have to pay for the course without the the insurance discount.

I took the MSF in September and have already signed up for an ARC (Additional Rider Course), which if you have completed the Basic Rider Course (BRC) — passed or failed — and would like more training, you are eligible to take a (approximately) 6 hour Additional Riding Class. I would just like the additional 6 hours training as a Spring refresher.

I plan to sign up for the Accident Scene Management course as well as a basic motorcycle maintenance class l.. maybe I am just a course junkie?

[Sean_D]

… I think they are primarily found on Japanese bikes, and not even all of those. I have no idea which percent has them vs not. Even on the bikes that do have them, sometimes they are blocked if you add bags to the bike. My wife’s bike has them, but they are not accessible with the hard luggage. She does the same thing I do, puts the cable through the helmet. It won’t stop someone from vandalizing your helmet if they want to. But it is definitely safer than using the D-Ring lock, as you say people cut them and you do see them for sale on CL and the like. Unfortunately, since you can buy replacement hardware for helmets missing the D-Ring, there is a market for them. I am sure people buy stuff on eBay and CL all the time that they are pretty sure is stolen. If the price is right, someone will buy it.

[Sean_D]

… just goes to show though. If someone wants your bike, car, tv, computer, whatever, bad enough ….

That being said, this Cyclone alarm system looks pretty nice for the money http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNNBUkHWKPw

[Sean_D]

… not unless I decide to start wearing a leather football helmet

[Sean_D]

.. what I do with my helmet when I am running into a store such as Target, the grocery store, Home Depot, whatever is run a cable through it. I have a 5/8 steel cable lock I run through the opening of the full face helmet then around the frame. Somebody could still cut it I suppose, but it will take a lot more effort than cutting the strap. I figure it is at least safer than the D-Ring locks.

I have been thinking about buying one of the helmet secure locks. I am sure it isn’t as safe as the 5/8″ cable as it appears much thinner, but still far safer than locking it only by the strap and it looks a little neater (more finished) than that big-ass ratchet cable I currently use.
http://www.helmetsecure.com/

Anyone have one of these that could offer any 1st hand experience?

[Sean_D]

…from State to State and maybe even from city to city, town to town. So it is always a good idea to check your local laws.

In Denver sidewalk parking is limited to 50cc engines and below as long as they don’t obstruct pedestrian traffic. They will regularly cite motorcycles for sidewalk parking. As Eon mentions sometimes sidewalks fall under different jurisdictions, which may even prevent the parking of 50cc and below scooters. Some of them are private property, others are considered to be fire lanes, some have other restrictions imposed by local ordinance, some storefronts and the sidewalks in front of them belong to a property management company rather than the store owner.

As you mention, it is always a good idea to check with the store manager, but keep in mind that sometimes the store manager doesn’t *really* have the right to give an OK. IF that sidewalk is a fire lane or falls under local jurisdiction as Eon mentions, the store manager may just be giving you his blessing to park at your own risk and you may find a citation on your bike to greet your return. Unfortunately a “Well they have never ticked anyone for parking here before” from the store owner won’t get you out of a ticket

[Sean_D]

Thanks for clarifying that. It was exactly what I was wondering when you mentioned earlier about the lower the KV the whiter. It seemed to me that the 4000-5000 would be the whitest, with 5500 heading toward blue. I know what you mean about the higher values going bluer. 6000 seems to be somewhat blue, but I have seen kits advertised that are 8,000, 10,000 and 12,000. Those seem to go from blue to purple on the far end. But I had seen some kits advertised at 3,000 and 3,500 that seemed pretty yellow. Not as yellow as the Hyper Yellows at 2,500, but a definite yellow.

So yeah.. that clarification sounds like exactly what I was thinking the colors should be. Thanks for that!

– Sean

[Sean_D]

.. That is great info. Thanks much for the reply on that. I will definitely do more research on it. I was planning on upgrading the stock light on my Bonnie to one of the Cibie models through Daniel Stern Lighting. From what everyone says he is some kind of automotive lighting guru. A lot of folks seem to recommend him. Not sure if anyone on this forum has any experience with him?
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/products/products.html

From what I understand the Cibie reflectors are far better than the no-name stock reflectors that come with my bike and work far better HID conversion or not. Maybe I should chat with him about upgrading the reflector with an eye on the HID conversion?

My headlight is easy to adjust, so I should be OK in that regard. I have a question about the KV number. By that do you mean Kelvin Value? If so wouldn’t the opposite be true? Lower number is more yellow while higher numbers go from white to blue. Maybe I don’t understand how it applies to bulbs though.

http://planetpixelemporium.com/tutorialpages/light.html

[Sean_D]

… I do only have the single main headlight, so perhaps the PIAA plasma is the best bet for that. Gives the low beam a purple tint and a bright white high beam. I need to add some running lights, so that may be the better choice for a yellow bulb.

I had a Silverstar in there before. Still keep it as a spare, but I liked the effect of the Plasma and I am hoping it is more eye catching and attention getting. No way to know for sure I guess. This is a pretty good side by side for anyone who may be interested http://www.aeriostyle.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=4339

Though the PIAA bulb here is more blue, while the plasma has more a purple cast. Photos on the second page show the plasma side by side. Not the best photo though.

I am giving serious thought to doing one of the H4 to HID conversions though.

[Author]

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