[SantaCruzRider]

Hough is talking about frame geometry. Just as an extended swing arms allows more energy to be usefully applied to driving the rear wheel, the extended fork rake found on most cruisers theoretically allows more force to be applied to stopping the front wheel (if all other factors are equal). I don’t think he was making a comparison between what top riders might be capable of. A little research of tested stopping distances often highlights that a number of cruisers, including ones with otherwise subpar discs and calipers, turn up some really decent stops, often matching some sport bikes with “better” suspension and brakes.

I’m not smart enough to understand all the physics involved, but I have picked up a few pearls of wisdom — including: If you’re continually unintentionally locking up your rear brake, you’re either pushing too hard or too suddenly on that right foot pedal thingy. And on a sport or standard, the harder you’re stopping, the easier it is to lock the rear.

And like Elwood mentions, you can recover from a rear end skid. IMO, it’s best to stay on the lock up while shifting your weight to bring the wheels into alignment (so you are skidding straight behind the front tire), then you can release the rear brake and you’re back in control. Learning how to end a skid can be very useful as it puts you back in full control.I’ve done this before on the freeway when trying to skid to a stop would have sent me into the back of a line of stopped cars. Once the skid was over, I was able to change course and slip around the stopped cars, giving me the extra 20 feet I needed to safely stop (plus, it probably looked fairly cool to folks watching who didn’t know I was simultenously crapping my pants!).

[SantaCruzRider]

Do you get this alot? Are you often ignored at parties and made to feel invisible?

I can’t help you with your actual questions, but maybe my SA remarks will bump the question for others who can add real value and have experience with getting a bike naked.

If not, maybe it’s your outfit — don’t be afraid of a little color!

[SantaCruzRider]

Lunatics — that’s what most non-believers say about riding in general.

Don’t hate us just because we chose to ride than than duckwalk through traffic

[SantaCruzRider]

First off, my daily ride is a 94 Kawi: so I’m a BIG fan of these somewhat older bikes, both from a style and value standpoint.

But that said, you need to keep in mind that an 82 is really getting up there in age and has reached the point where a number of very expensive parts (gaskets, hoses, anything rubber) may be ready to just rot out of place. This can/will happen regardless of mileage, so you should think about your comfort level with having to stay on top of replacing items that are just simply “done”, but may not spring a leak or fail until a few miles down the road.

Another thing to consider is whether you can get replacement parts. My model bike was built through 2003, so parts are still readily available — not sure about the GS650.

If parts are available, you like wrenching at least a little on bikes and this one is in readlly great running condition, it may be a nice deal. But if what you really want is an affordable first ride, I’d agree with “A” above and look for something newer.

PS The bike itself is a street tuned 4 cyl that has more pull and weight than is usually recommended as a first bike. But there you go.

[SantaCruzRider]

I’ve done it a couple of times over the years. I lane share practically every commute and sometimes it gets pretty tight.
The times I’ve done it, the contact was really light but sounds like much more. One adjusted my mirror back a bit but left no mark and the second slightly tweaked the driver’s small mirror out. In the last case, I stopped, apologized and we both glanced a his mirror (both of us still in traffic at a light.) He was cool with it and I was on my way.
As a car driver, I’ve also had my mirror tapped by riders squeezing by. It always sounds like something should be smashed, but has never left a mark. None of the riders have stopped, and frankly, I wouldn’t expect anything more than a look back to be sure I wasn’t flagging them down.
Mirror tapping is a sign that you’re margin of safety has gone down to just about nothing. I try to leave at least 2″ between my mirror and any car mirror. That means we probably have closer to 8″ gap between hard parts that can be expensive and/or cause me to lose control.
As for the 18-wheeler tap — I NEVER get that close to those guys. Only time I share with them is when they are stopped (or nearly so), are on a straightaway and I’m sure they see me. Otherwise, I’m worried my mirror tap will result in tire treads on me and my gear.

[SantaCruzRider]

I’m putting insulated gloves on my wish list (and if I don’t get them, I’m ordering some myself on the 28th!).

It’s dipping into the low 30s on my mountain commute (34 was the low this morning) and the set up I have ain’t cutting it. I’ve added cotton liners to my vented leather MC gloves and, no surprise, my hands are freezing. Luckily, I’m only in the pass for about 30 minutes, so I’m able to shake the feeling back into my thumbs before they go completely numb.

I like the baclava idea too, though a hooded sweatshirt under my leather jacket so far gives me the neck coverage I need.

[SantaCruzRider]

Go out early morning when most sane folks are still sleeping and just ride.

Your learning curve is going to be long and steep because of your poor bike choice, but thetrade off will be the warm feeling of knowing that you got the bike that fits your fantasy/dream. But everything can be learned, the trick is to avoid getting hurt or scared before you are able to gain even the most basic skills.

On your specific issues:
Start/stops: It’s all about practice and finding that friction point. I’d find a parking lot and do about 50 starts and stops (you’ll want to stop at 10 and will think you’ve got it, but you wont and it will go out the window as soon as you encounter your first intersection). Then progress to some residential streets and do it again. Now ride home and plan on doing it tomorrow.

Getting passed: Like Munch said, speedos typically read high — so you’ll need to ride a bit faster. Also, I STRONGLY advise not focusing on the rear view mirrors, as most of the danger lies in the forward quarters. But, if you see someone on your butt, pull way over to the right and let them pass. You gain nothing at this point by being pressed to ride faster than is safe for you or in staring in the rear view.

Road surfaces: There are just places that you don’t want to ride or that require a different approach. These include speed bumps and curbs. Pay attention to the road and watch for these traps.

Best of luck with the new ride.

[SantaCruzRider]

Just enough to pin them back — should do it. But don’t use Scotch tape as it will crackle when you move and it will drive you crazy after an hour or so.
You could simply use Gary’s idea, but the tape is easier and more of a conversation starter at rest stops.

[SantaCruzRider]

I’d be willing to bet that a lot of crashes start out with a sunny day cruise down familiar streets. All it takes is one clueless left turner to make that wide open road into an impossibly twisty trials trials course.

[SantaCruzRider]

If you’d have seen their booth at the Nor Cal Cycle World show this weekend, you’d have thought that they were already out of business and are just liquidating their stock. They had more quads than bikes.
It’s too bad.

[SantaCruzRider]

I’ve never ordered from them, so this isn’t an endorsement — but just got back from the CW Moto show and Leatherup booth was promoting the following discounts for online orders:

$20 off any order over $150 — code # 66775
10% off any size order — code # 66772

Best of luck.

[SantaCruzRider]

Lots of folks worry about mastering shifting, but most of us figure it own on our first bike. But I’d argue that simple route and ride benefit the learning process. If you’re planning to buy an automatic as your first ride, you might as well learn on it — my 2 cents.

[SantaCruzRider]

I think you’re very smart to go used on your first bike. The only thing worse than making a newbie mistake and dropping your bike is making that same mistake and dropping your brand-spanking-new bike. I know because I did it with the one and only new bike I’ve owned. It stings so much less to buff out a fairing or replace a taillight on a 5-yr-old bike.
Also, your mileage may vary, but I’ve had very good luck with the reliability of used bikes. If it’s been running strong for the PO and maintenance has been done, it will likely continue on the same path. The fact that you’re looking at the Ninja 250, rather than some exotic or street racer, should also help you avoid a lemon.
Happy hunting!

[SantaCruzRider]

Your hunch that this was caused by a slick road surface sounds probable. Too much speed is the other side of that coin, the faster you’re traveling, the more lean and traction are required to carve through the turn.
Wet pavement can have very inconsistent traction. Wet asphalt can be very rideable, but then you hit one of those big fat painted arrows and it’s another world.
Glad to hear you came through OK (as well as the bike avoiding major damage). Hang in there and take it slow while you get used to what the bike is capable of.

[SantaCruzRider]

I like the old-school styling too — but I think my 94 Kawi is purdy, so my sense of style may be highly suspect.

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