[CaptCrashIdaho]

If you want to ride–chase it. Take the course again. Learn from your mistakes! If at first you don’t succeed…try…try…you know. Bottom line for me: you might just need more time with a coach and THAT is doable.

[CaptCrashIdaho]

If it was MSF you did “The Box”:

[CaptCrashIdaho]

This is as touchy/personal area of scooters! One important issue is carcass temp–yep, the tire needs to be heated all the way through to give the best performance possible.

But here’s the rub: Honestly, on the road, even at spirited speeds–how often are you pushing the tire to it’s performance limit AND–really–should you be?

I’ve been around enough scoff-laws to know that a great deal of them almost never get the tire hot enough to get it behaving as a high performance tire should; with compound peeling off like rubber cement, the tire surface HOT to the touch. Does that mean that you shouldn’t be cognative of ‘are my tires up to operating temp’? Nope. A cold tire is an underperforming tire…or as we used to say in the day:

“Don’t try and pull a runner on cold tires.”

Likewise, if conditions are adverse (meaning cold or wet or worse, BOTH) then everything should be telling you SLOW down, don’t push it. Tire temp and tire condition should be one of those things saying: BE CAREFUL.

OH and on the idea of which high performance tire to buy? Again, that’s a personal issue–I’ve switched to a cheaper tire because I kill them quick enough I can’t afford 250 bucks a tire…for street/hooligan use. It’s a tough thing to see a Pilot Power or Diablo Rosso that’s never been leaned over or scrubbed up to that great satin/milk chocolate look that a tire at temperature gets. Kinda like seeing a great player on crutches.

I would rather see a good player worked hard than a great one on the bench. (And good players cost less than superstars!)

[CaptCrashIdaho]

Stainless. I recommend the full system because…well–why go halfway? The slip on is nice and a reasonable fix but really…think about it–that’s like changing the nozzle on the hose; it makes a difference but if you’re really looking for a change? Cut, Jet, Swap.

Changing the rear sprocket is cake. Steel will last longer. Aluminum will get eaten faster. Also, for more ideas/options/advice: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/

Be Safe!

[CaptCrashIdaho]

Do the 3×3, do the FULL exhuast and Jet it. You’ll like it. I would offer changing the countersprocket (up 1) or the rear (Down a couple) for rev’s sake on the freeway.

Other than that you’re changing carbs, punching out the cylinder and stuff and I don’t think it’s a decent return on investment.

All my vids (so far) at http://www.youtube.com/captcrashidaho are on a DRZ with a 3×3, jets, and full exhaust, 39 tooth rear, Conti Force SM tires (cheaper than Dunnies but work great), acerbis fender, new bars…etc.

Did I mention that the DRZ is fun and easy to mod?

[CaptCrashIdaho]

Here’s what I’m willing to say:

Road temp affects tire temp. A warm tire conforms to the road better, offering better grip. A cold tire doesn’t conform as readily offering less grip. On a cold day, getting a tire up to a high operating temp takes a long time and (potentially) the tire will NEVER reach operating temp. On a cold, rainy day, the tire is cooled by the water flowing off it (kinda like how a radiator works).

Best advice? If it’s cold–be aware your tires might not be at optium operating temperature.

One of the cool things about the SM vid is if you watch you can see the tire slip on paint and then hook back up on the unpainted asphalt. That means that even though it’s cold outside, the tire is cool and the ground is cool–THERE’S STILL TRACTION TO BE HAD! Cold tires + Cold surface DO NOT equal skating rink. BUT you do need to use your head.

[CaptCrashIdaho]

GREAT BIKE. LOVE MINE.

Jealous though…like the white/barbwire look…

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