Forum Replies Created
5 Common Wear and Tear Items on Motorcycles
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swedeParticipant
It feels great, I’ve fixed the brakes now, there were indeed some dirt in the main brake cylinder, but now it’s all cleaned and fresh brake fluid in the system.
Been riding all day since, just like when you get your first car and take every opportunity just to drive. But now it’s started to rain so enough for tonight. Now I’m gonna look for the cheapest Givi Monorack online so I can attach that topbox I got.
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JonathanswedeParticipantLinköping city [~Liinshoeping] in Östergötlands county, Sweden
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JonathanswedeParticipantSeems to work and not too expensive, dunno why they call them ‘changers’ rather than ‘triggers’ which would be a more correct term
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JonathanswedeParticipantBut hasn’t this been possible all along? I’m sure I’ve seen comments in the past posted by “Anonymous (not verified)”?
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JonathanswedeParticipantYes, always use as high gear as possible and change gear early. Also, you don’t have to go trough every gear while gearing up, some bikes have 5 gears, and you could easily go 1-2-3-5 or even 1-2-4 if you only have 4 gear’s.
Next time you’re out riding, try using higher gear’s, you’ll hear and feel if you’re going too slow on a too high gear.And as ShannonG says, change gear as soon as you can, around 2k should be just fine, but it all depends on which type of engine you’ve got.
If you want to learn more, you could google for “eco-driving”
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JonathanswedeParticipantIf you’ve got some general electrical knowledge, do the following: Get a voltmeter and check the voltage on the battery, check the voltage on the connectors on the starter as well (whilst pressing the starter button, -watch out so you don’t get a chock though)
Generally when the starter only turns the engine round for a short while or only a couple of turns, it means it doesn’t get enough juice (which I’m sure you’ve figured out). This could either relate to a bad battery or bad contact between connectors somewhere in the wiring. If it happened a couple of days after the replaced the wiring chances are that they didn’t tighten the connectors enough.
To avoid future corrosion, slab on some vaseline or silicone grease on battery poles and connectors.
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JonathanswedeParticipantFirst of all, go to a dealership and sit on the bikes, it’ll give you more than all the fanboys/haters in the world can tell you. Finding a virago shouldn’t be a problem finding since the world is flooded by them.
Second, there are more bikes than just the two you mentioned, investigate more bikes of this type. The Kawasaki 250 Eliminator (BBM has some info about the little 125 sibling) As for the 250EL I almost bought it when I started looking for bikes, as opposed to the Virago, it has liquid cooling, a practically maintenance free belt-drive instead of a chain, has more power (~10HP more) and it even has a 0,1inch higher seat
Not saying it’s actually better, but definitely worth checking out.
Oh, and it’s both called ZL 250 and EL 250 for some reason, so don’t get mixed upsmörgÃ¥sbord
JonathanMay 2, 2008 at 11:11 am in reply to: Using (Bad) Math to figure out if “I am too big for a 250cc” #5939swedeParticipantThis is why I’m never getting a gas-gulping sports car I can only drive in the summer, still loosing value sitting in the garage, doing nothing.
I never knew acceleration could be this good at these prices before I got on a bike.
Good post!
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JonathanswedeParticipantSaywha? Urban boy huh?
But I have to say that it’s pretty cool to actually start riding a bike before you learned to swim. It’s like learning how to walk before learning how to crawl. :coolbikedoingawheelie
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JonathanswedeParticipantHere in sweden we have a special ‘limited’-class you get to drive once you turn 18. These bikes have to be restricted to 25kW, this is done by simply putting a special washer into the carburettor. These can be bought at dealerships.
If the bike has DOCH instead of a carb. it should just be a question of software settings.Go and ask a mechanic at a Suzuki dealership, they should be able to help you.
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JonathanswedeParticipantLucky, drops seem to come expensive for some, but I guess that mostly affects ppl with full-fairings. So was it on the grass with the lawn chair being in the way or on asphalt?
I really fear the day I drop my bike, not that it’s so high-valued or anything, but the time and effort it takes to get it back in mint, for a mistake that’s so easy to make. And insurance is meaningless with excess rates above the actual repair costs. douh.
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JonathanswedeParticipantWhat’s the big difference between those and a normal water-scooter/jet-ski? I can se that it looks more like a snowmobile, with the front-ski/runner, but how does that affect maneuverability?
I guess they’re cheaper than jet-ski’s, since they cost a fortune.An alternative if you just happen to have a snowmobile lying around, is to just use that instead, that’s what guys in northern sweden do. (and i guess US too)
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JonathanswedeParticipantJust persuade them that it’s technically just a car missing two wheels, with it’s biggest feature being low fuel consumption, which’ll be welcome for their economy. A last resort, should the mind tricks not work, is to at least make them aware of your attempted jedi game, make them feel sorry for having such a dork of a child, this’ll definitely get you the bike out of pure sympathy for the weaker.
No. seriously I have no idea, there’s really no point arguing when you’re up against parents who think they’ll loose their child to the roads. If you really want it bad, wait until you’re 18 and do it without their approval. Not saying you should.
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JonathanswedeParticipant1) No idea, just be aware that when you’re on a motorbike you are very exposed and vulnerable to other drivers, no matter how good driver you are, others errors is in this case more of your problem than theirs.
4) Invest in gear that feels good, go to a store and try out some different brands/models. Buy what feels like it could stand a crash and make sure you get the right sizes, the protectors shall stay in place. If you go with leather, know that it stretches with use and that most leather wear is usually uncomfortable at start (good thing if you can try it on sitting on a bike)
I belive that Ben (the site admin) payed about $800 for his gear.
I myself payed about 1000$ for helmet, pants, boots, gloves, balaclava and back-protector. But with the dollar being so low, and me living in Europe I guess what Ben payed for his gives a better picture.Welcome to the forums and good luck!
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JonathanswedeParticipant@Ben, people back in the ’80s started on those bikes and they’re not any heavier today (the bikes that is, not the people, they’ve probably gained a few pounds over the years), and the power output isn’t comparable to a modern engine of the same volume.
Driving schools up here usually have modern GSX750’s or similar ‘naked’ bikes. The reason for this, except filling req’s from the DMW, is that this is a common type of bike, and if that’s the sort of bike people are gonna get once they’ve got their licence, wouldn’t it be wise teaching them riding on one of those ‘typical’ bikes? I personally am glad to learn the basics in an controlled enviroment, on a bike that weighs about the same as mine. (Might just be that your right and I’m wrong, and that I AM crazy starting on an 500+ pound bike >_< the future will tell...) Imho, having ridden a lightweight ‘trial’ motorbike for years, one (I) have a different attitude towards a heavier bike, at least I tend to drive a lighter bike more ‘sloppy’ or more like if I was riding a bicycle, whereas I treat the heavier bike more like a ‘vehicle’. But as you point out, there’s always the risk of being frightened, since your bound to have at least a couple of ‘close calls’ with time, and sorting that situation out before anything happens might be/feel more difficult on an heavy bike. I dunno. Any way, I’m not going to argue what you say Ben, it’s too easy to overrate ones abilities when it comes to speed and control. Cautiousness is a virtue. (Not saying that I’m reckless *silly giggles*)
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Jonathan -
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