[briderdt]

My bike (SV650s) has a helmet lock tab under the back seat (or seat cowling). 2 of them, in fact. Looks like a steel hook that doesn’t go to anything, but the helmet buckle fit over it, and then the seat locks on top, making it impossible to take the helmet unless one cuts the strap. So if any one tries to sell a helmet without the straps (yes, I’ve seen it on CL), it’s almost 100% chance to b stolen.

[briderdt]

http://www.kbb.com/KBB/OtherVehicles/PriceType.aspx?VehicleClass=Motorcycle

Check it out for yourself. After-market stuff shouldn’t enter into the equation for buying a bike (much to the contrary opinion of sellers who want to see that stuff paid for). But that’s well below blue book.

But really — a racing exhaust on a GS500f?

That’s not a lot of miles, and as long as maintenance has been done on schedule, that bike should be golden. Ask about whether it has a clear title (as in not rebuilt or totalled).

[briderdt]

According to the op:

“…as it got closer, the teenage girl driving it could be seen looking at her lap. Probably texting…*sigh*”

Note: PROBABLY texting. He did not say she WAS texting. Not paying attention, for certain, but it isn’t said she was texting.

[briderdt]

I wasn’t saying that “there’s no such thing as beginner gear” to say that you had to spend a lot of money to protect yourself — far from it. I got head-to-toe protection for less than $250, and none of it was used. Shop the closeouts and online (though the helmet may be a sticking point for that). Newenough.com, Leatherup.com, MotorcycleSuperstore.com, ComptetitionAccessories.com… all good places to check.

[briderdt]

But… I see that what you’re listing there are generally the requirements for the MSF basic class. That’s pretty much all they require, as your max speed in any drill is 20mph, and most of the time a fair bit less. The long-sleeved jacket required for the class is NOT defined as an armored motorcycle jacket (same with the pants). They just want your skin covered with SOMEthing.

But when you get out on the street, wear full gear.

[briderdt]

I’ll echo the “maybe”. My situation is probably different from yours in that I had ridden and raced road bicycles for many years, and already had the kind of built-in “road radar” for traffic hazards. One less thing to have to really THINK about when I was out on the road.

But… The on/off throttle is real — it takes a steady hand. Two things that made a HUGE difference for me was to do the TPS adjustment (go on the canyonchasers.com site and look up the absoultely fantasic instructions for doing this), and adding a Cramp-Buster.

I had ridden my SV a couple times before taking the MSF class. Meaning I bought the bike having never ridden anything in my life. Smart? Not really. I think after taking the class and getting back on my SV, I was second-guessing my decision to start on that bike — it was SO HEAVY!!! But I persevered, and now a year and a half (almost) later I’ve very comfortable on the bike, and have even taken a few trips 2-up. I’m almost to the point of looking seriously for “the next bike”, but I’m not finding anything out there I like as much as the SV.

So back to the question — is it a beginner bike? Depends on you. Be patient with it if you do get it.

[briderdt]

…but the V-strom uses essentially the same engine as the SV650 (which I ride). It was (and still is) my first bike, and I climbed my learning curve on it. It’s been almost a year and a half, and I’m pretty comfortable on the bike, but it was a handful at first. If you’re restrained with the right hand, it should be okay. BUT… Take that MSF class first. I didn’t — I bought the SV650s first, and even ride it a few times before the class (with a permit, so I was legal). Coming out of the class, I probaby would have gotten a different bike, but it’s what I had, and I’m here to tell the tale. As was stated on another thread, the bike’s weight is what you have to overcome first.

[briderdt]

…take a shot at that HUGE peg plate with that black paint.

[briderdt]

The Suzuki version of the V-Star 650.

[briderdt]

I’m just raising a flag on that statement because I *think* it’s not entirely correct – depends on 1-gen vs 2-gen. There’s a thread on SVRider.com started by a guy who was going to be making some after-market plates to move the pegs down and forward, and was looking for the stock locations. Seems to me that the 1st gens had different locations between SVs and SV models, but not the 2nd gen (or vice versa).

[briderdt]

Yes the naked model is more upright. BUT… You can replace the triples and cables on the SVs with those from the SV and have the same more-upright position if you so choose (or go with ConvertiBars). Not too expensive of a change, as the parts become readily available from others doing the opposite swap or upgrading to gsxr front ends (check out the svrider.com forum).

As long as the maintenance has been done and the bike hasn’t been wrecked, there’s no reason it shouldn’t last a long, long time.

[briderdt]

… and instead it’s whatever holds the axle in place.

[briderdt]

…why not? I don’t see an issue with the bike not holding up, just that you keep yourself in check and don’t drop the bike.

[briderdt]

When I was looking for a bike, I had this irrational fear of carbs. Why? Well, I love wrenching on bikes. BICYCLES that is. Add an engine and I get the heebie-jeebies. So I went with the SV650s (the Ninja 650 was right in there too) because all the smaller bikes were carb’d.

I’ve survived to tell the tale, but if I were to do it all over again, I’d probably go with a Ninja 500 (or even 250) or the GS500 and not give a rip about the carbs.

[briderdt]

Subsidized is $125 (which means a valid WA wtate driver’s licence), otherwise $250.

I’ve heard IL is $20.

[Author]

Posts