[WeaponZero]

These instructors need to learn that Kawasaki Eliminator 125s werent made for dragging knee

[WeaponZero]

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[WeaponZero]

My local dealer wouldnt even order my 3XL Joe Rocket jacket unless I put down half the price ahead of time.

[WeaponZero]

Well, I’ll see about other jackets, like higher end JR’s, then but unfortunately I can’t try things on before I buy because no place stocks anything bigger than XL size and I wear a 3XL

[WeaponZero]

What about the Speed and Strength jacket did you not like?

[WeaponZero]

The biggest problem with mine is poor quality zippers that I know will wear themselves out after not too long. Sometime in the future my jacket will become unuseable because the zippers will no longer close. They’re like a plastic/nylon that is eating away at itself every time I zip the jacket up and down.

The Sonic 2.0 does look like a decent jacket but for the price you could also get a Teknic Mercury or a Speed & Strength Moment of Truth, both of which are known for being extremely high quality leather jackets.

[WeaponZero]

I haven’t considered JR because my current jacket is a JR and i am very dissastisfied with it. Of course it’s pretty bottom of the line (cheapest jacket they make I think), but even considering that I would have expected better quality.

I guess I should look into some of their more upscale offerings before I write off the brand though.

[WeaponZero]

Closest call I’ve had so far was narrowly avoiding a collision with a brand new mercedes that was driving the wrong way down a one way street. If I was certain I could have survived it and without major injury, I probably would have let the bastard hit me and taken him for all he was worth.

[WeaponZero]

the H-D program makes you take the class on Buell Blasts, which are 500cc single cylinder standards. Most other MSF entities will make you take it on smaller, 125 and 250cc standards/cruisers/dual sports. Aside from that I can’t think of any difference they would have.

[WeaponZero]

Before you really start riding you’re going to need to pick yourself up a good quality DOT-approved helmet, a riding jacket, riding gloves, and riding boots. Pants are recommended as well.

What you need to understand about helmets, first-off, is that any really good quality helmet WILL set you back $300 or more. Any helmet is better than no helmet but IMO any helmet worth having will be in that price range or higher. Read reviews before you buy and try on what you can. Comfort is the single most important factor. Other important factors are wind noise and defogging properties. There are certain brands, such as HJC, Scorpion, KBC, and Nolan that are known for making cheap helmets of good quality but they still can’t match up to the quality of the “premium” helmet brands: AGV, Arai, Shoei, Shark, Suomy.

Most jackets will do safety-wise, just make sure they have CE-approved armor in the elbows and shoulders, some sort of cooling mechanism (either vents or perforations), and a back protector. The main difference you’ll be asking yourself is the question of mesh/textile vs. leather. Leather holds up better in a crash but can be unbearably hot in summer riding, plus it’s much more expensive. Mesh/textile jackets offer superior cooling and weatherproofing in most cases and are cheaper but don’t hold up as well in a crash. There are companies out there making hybrid jackets that combine the best of both worlds (see our review of the Shift Racing Streetfighter jacket), but they are still something of a compromise between the two in some ways.

As far as boots go, Sidi is the undoubted ruler of the boot market but their prices are too high for most. If you can afford them, however, go for it. I wear Tourmaster Solution WP full-length waterproof riding boots and they do me fine. Avoid riding boots/shoes that have laces and were built to look like sneakers. They do offer some basic protection but don’t protect your ankles or lower legs like actual boots do.

With gloves you’re going to be limited mostly to the shape of your hand. Different manufacturers make gloves that fit different people better. There’s gauntlet-style gloves and “shorty” gloves. Gauntlet style gloves go about halfway up the forearm while “shorty” gloves end just past the wrist. The main difference between the two is that gauntlet-style gloves are meant to be worn OVER the sleeves of your jacket while “shorty” gloves go inside of them. Gauntlet-style gloves do offer some degree of higher protection but depending on the jacket you’re wearing that may not be an issue. “Shorty” gloves are said to be much more comfortable for street riders, however. Don’t buy gloves online. If you can’t try them on to make sure they fit your hand like a.. well, like a glove, don’t buy them at all. Try to get gloves that have built-in armor for the knuckles.

[WeaponZero]

I used to work at the city impound yard here in Pittsburgh, as I mentioned above, and every month we would hold an auction. Anything that didn’t have an evidence hold on it and had been in the yard for more than 30 days got put up for auction, and one time we had a pristine condition (except for the messed up ignition tumbler) 2001 ZX-6R Ninja. It was a recovered stolen bike that didn’t have a plate on it. It ended up selling at the auction for $1800.

I kept in touch with the buyer for a little bit because I wanted it for myself originally but as an employee wasn’t allowed to bid at the auctions. Over a year later he still was still jumping through the hoops needed to try to title it and register it.

[WeaponZero]

Can’t say anything about that because in the US there was no CB500 in 1994. There was a CB450 up until the mid 80s, but no 500. I would say though that based on the fact that its a Honda, if its well maintained and sounds good when running go for it.

[WeaponZero]

I would be very very weary of it. As a former employee at the Pittsburgh City Impound yard, I know what happens to “stolen” bikes that are recovered. The hassle you’re going to have to go through to get that thing street legal isn’t worth the money you’re saving, and also you have to bear in mind that bike now probably has a bad story behind it that will one day catch up with you.

[WeaponZero]

the PAMSP is good. i took it and got me my license last october. it was great and fun. hint: pick the yamaha dirtbikes, theyre soooo much more fun to take the class on than any other bike they have

[WeaponZero]

In PA, getting your Class-M restricted license (motorcycle learner’s permit) HAS to be the very first step you take. You can’t even sign up for the MSF course if you don’t have it.

After that, you have to sign up for the MSF course which in PA usually has a 2-4 month waiting period. It’s free though .

Completing the MSF Beginner’s Rider Course will upgrade your learner’s permit to a full license without having to take any tests at the DMV. It will also make you eligible for an insurance discount on your motorcycle insurance, though it isn’t much. In my case the discount was a whopping $1.75 a month, of course considering my insurance payment (full coverage) was only $29.00, can’t complain.

The hard part in PA is what do you do during the 2-4 months in between when you got your permit and when you take your MSF course? Do you let the bike gather dust or do you take it to a parking lot and practice basic maneuvers, or more? That is entirely up to you. Personally I feel that you should get comfortable with the clutch/shift technique to get it rolling from a dead start, but that’s it. There were numerous people in my MSF riding course who were asked not to return for day 2 because by the end of day 1 they still had not grasped how to shift properly and how to get it rolling from a dead stop. You don’t want to be one of them.

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