[JackTrade]

…get that last. Your agent will likely need the actual VIN number of your bike.

Assuming you’re taking the BRC; if so, you’ll use their bikes.

I think only in one of the ERCs do they allow you to use your own bike in the DMV-test-waiver section. I bet Allen knows for sure though.

[JackTrade]

motorcyclecloseouts.com for great discounts on last season’s stuff. They don’t have everything in every color or size, but if they have yours, you’ll save a bundle.

newenough.com for all around good prices, amazing customer service and information.

Also, check out your local dealers…they often have sales, and it’s good to support ’em when you can (i.e. when they have something you want and it’s not insanely overpriced).

[JackTrade]

I can kinda see their logic if you’re just calling and asking, but visiting in person should be a different story.

[JackTrade]

Like Munch, I do the brake light modulation manually. I find it promotes good scanning practice, as I’m always keeping an eye on who’s behind me as I brake to a stop.

[JackTrade]

Maybe it’s just me, but I prefer gloves with gauntlets…they seem safer (offer protection for your wrists), and help avoid having air go up your sleeves.

Look at gloves designed for track use…they’re ALL the longer, gauntlet style…that seems significant.

[JackTrade]

1) the scraping and 2) the fact that the course is within a tiny, enclosed area with lots of obstacles. That that’s not a concern clearly shows the caliber of riders

[JackTrade]

I bet the police have the same view as the military (and indeed most of the US government) does when it comes to occupational training: it doesn’t matter if you’ve spent your life doing it, or you’ve never done it at all, you’re all going to learn to do it OUR way through OUR system.

That way, ensures a baseline of quality and predictability, two things important in that kind of job.

[JackTrade]

…instead of a liner.

Doesn’t affect the jacket fit the way some liners do, and also adds warmth w/o bulk, since it allows the mesh jacket to trap body heat.

[JackTrade]

There’s enough room for a sweatshirt underneath.

I live in the Washington DC area, so we have similar climates. I wear the Fieldsheer in cool weather, with the liner in, and it works great. Last weekend, it dipped into the 50s in the evening, and riding home with the liner in and just a button-down shirt, I was comfortable.

In the fall and winter though, I switch to a leather jacket.

[JackTrade]

See my avatar.

Positives: well-constructed, has heavy ballistic nylon on the sleeves/shoulders, standard armor, retroreflective piping front and back, and flows well with the liner out. The sleeves have nice snap adjusters that really allow you to cinch them down and keep the armor where it should be.

Downside: not a lot of storage space for stuff, the liner is pretty flimsy (it does work though), and of course it’s not going to provide optimal protection in a fall.

Overall, I’m quite happy with it. I wear it with Fieldsheer Titanium mesh pants (which I wear as overpants over jeans), and it’s a nice hot weather combo.

Edit: on size, yes, get your usual…Fieldsheer gear runs pretty true to size.

[JackTrade]

IMO any true enthusiat cares little about resale value. When it’s time to sell the bike or car, it’s because you’ve extracted all the value to you out of it, and (usually) it’s time to upgrade.

For me, the value of a vehicle is in the experience of using it, not what it can be sold for. I tend to keep my things for long periods of time, and when I finally do sell them, what makes me most happy is if I’m able to sell them to someone with a similar worldview that will take appropriate care of them.

[JackTrade]

In terms of information and what’s correct, you have to keep in mind the incentives.

Dealerships are in the business to make a profit. And there’s much less profit on a small displacement, novice-friendly motorcycle than on a supersport like a Gixxer. So guess how that might color their recommendations on what you should buy from them?

The bottom line: there is no truth if they tell you to get a 600cc supersport. Those are not in any way, shape or form bikes for beginners. And any salesman who tells you otherwise should be ashamed of himself…either he doesn’t know much about motorcycles, or he’s planning on this being his big sale from you, betting you’re not going to survive long enough to be back for another bike.

It’s not about engine size per se but architecture. For a first bike, look for twins, and stay away from 4 cylinders. Hence Megaspaz’s recommendation.

[JackTrade]

I still don’t like to ride at night, but will do it on occasion. Fortunately, I live in an urban area, so it’s pretty well-lit.

[JackTrade]

Given your height, a lot of us here would suggest a dual-sport, as they tend to be quite tall and so you’ll be more comfortable. Suzuki DR-Z400s, both the S model (standard dual sport knobby tires) and the SM (supermoto model with pure street tires), are quitely highly rated.

Of course, it depends on if you like the off-road look/style, but they’re considered great all-around bikes, and they’re wonderful for urban riding.

[JackTrade]

The MSF courses by me list that as a prerequisite for the classes.

But I think it’s mostly because if you’ve ridden a bicycle, you’ll be familar with how a two-wheeled vehicle handles and moves (and doesn’t, as the case may be). The classes will teach you the mechanics of riding a motorycle (how to use the throttle, how to turn, etc.), but they don’t teach you the mechanics of how a two-wheeled vehicle operates….they assume you know.

So yeah, get an inexpensive bicycle and learn to ride on that first…will make learning to ride a motorcycle much easier (every bit helps, as there’s A LOT to learn).

And there are no stupid questions here, so ask away to your hearts content!

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