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The Ultimate Guide To Motorcycle Windshields
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IBA270
ParticipantIt’s got slightly less HP than an SV 650 with a slightly lower seat. Maintenance is minimal (more than an SV though) and there’s tons of aftermarket. The 696 starts to be a bit much bike however…I think they have north of 80 HP. While that’s not a screamer, that’s quite a bit more than the 60hp of the other bikes you’re looking at. PM with questions on Duc’s if you’d like…
ParticipantLook for a full face, and make sure you try it on before you buy it. You’re more than welcome to look at my collection of on-line purchased gear that never fit right. Learn from my mistakes!!!
FWIW…and I’ll post a lesson in helmet fitting…
I was properly fitted by an Arai trained helmet salesperson. I wear Arai helmets and have off and on for years. He asked if I had ever been fitted, and I had not. He measured my head, looked at my helmet and asked what size I was wearing, which I replied an XL. He just shook his head and grabbed a helmet off the shelf and had me try it on. It was a medium in a different shell size. I had been wearing the wrong helmet and size for years and didn’t know it.
FWIW…it pays to find someone who knows about helmets. Those of use who have been around a while know how to fit a helmet, but not the scientific way of ensuring a true and proper fit.
HTH…
ParticipantThis could help. I doubt you’d have enough room to layer under it if it’s fitting properly…
The Olympia AirGlide is a fantastic set-up that does have a liner…it’s a pretty nice set-up.
ParticipantI don’t think they are “unsafe” but don’t be fooled into thinking that they offer adequet abrassion resistance because they don’t…they can’t! Most of what’s on the market is made of polyester, or the same thing your favorite fleece jacket is made of. It will melt as soon as you contact pavement, and that means it melts on you, too!
Having said that; motorcycling is a managed risk. If you are riding in stop and go situation in extremely hot conditions, then maybe mesh IS the way to go for you. Make sure you leave all the armor in because that is all the protection you’ll like get in case of an accident.
ParticipantBMW Airheads…I love ’em. If you can work on a lawn mower, you can keep one of these things running. Not much cooler IMO…parts are cheap and available too. Not likely to pull up next to another one usually…
ParticipantOh, I know you are Munch…no worries! Everyone learns a little differently or relates a little differently. If pulling gets them around a turn safely when pressing won’t, then theres the answer!
ParticipantOne of the reasons we teach “press” or “push” instead of pull is that pressing will focus the head, shoulders and hands moving in the direction of the turn. Pulling tends to focus the same energy to the OUTSIDE and may (*MAY*) subconciously let the rider be uncomfortable executing the turn.
This doesn’t mean that everyone thinks this way, it’s just one of the reason why we teach it this way. Just for grins, as you read this at your desk, imagine your bars and place your hands on the imaginary grips. Try “pulling the bars” and stop. Notice where your eyes and upper body is.
Now try pressing. Notice how you are leaning into the turn now?
There’s nothing wrong with helping a rider get passed mentally what they are doing physically though.
FWIW, the pressing concept seems to be the most difficult thing to get people to grasp, even though a great deal of the class is dedicated to it. In fact, by the time we begin to focus explicitly on it, students are already doing it, but they are unaware they are!
Participantthat they aren’t necesarily skilled nor even licensed riders. You like the look of bike “a” and that’s what they’ll sell you. You like bike “b” and that’s the one for you in their eyes. Not all the time, but much of the time. Selling a supersport to a new or even an average novice rider is irresponsible IMO.
Having said ALL of that…the 650 is a lot of bike, but should be fine for you for a long time. As I say here often on similar posts: I’ve owned plenty of bikes including sport bikes, sport tourers..you name it. The most fun bike in my garage to ride every day is my wife’s M620 Ducati. I’m a big boy too at 6’4, 240…and 43 year old basketball knees. Bikes in that class have the right weight, HP and Torque to be a lot of fun without being too peaky. They are much easier to enjoy on the street. My R6 track bike has an engine builder red-line of ~16K. Power curve is between ~11K-up. It would be a PIA to ride on the street.
HTH…
ParticipantMy good friend has two for sale here…very clean…
ParticipantMan, I am so lucky I live in the DFW area…there are TWO tracks within an hour, and THREE more within four hours!!
Track day coaches are ALWAYS a good idea. Video helps a lot, doesn’t it? I work with new riders at the track (I’m a relatively new track rider myself) and I always get the same response that I gave MY instructor…”I thought my butt WAS off the seat?!?!?” The really fast guys? Their butts are never on the saddle…I can’t do that…I’m old, fat, lazy…tired…and slow. But steady!
Good looking video!
Participantgenerally refers specifcally to inline 4 cylinder supersport bikes from Japan, or the 3 cylinder wonder from England. These machines have incredible horsepower delivered at high RPM’s. The also have very powerful brakes designed to haul the bike down from triple digit speeds lap after lap on a race track.
For two valved twins, especially those found on cruisers or standards, 600cc’s are very user friendly and offer 45-60 horsepower delivered at low RPM’s with a smooth power curve. They usually offer lower saddle heights as well. These cruisers are aimed directly at beginning and novice riders where the supersports decidedly are not.
Participantthere is no way to quantify what the “experience” is. Does rider who claims 10 years of dirt experience have 10 years of experience or does he have one year of experience for 10 years? Better question…who taught the dirt riders? Are their respective techniques any good?
I’d still rather have brand new rider in my classes than an “experienced” rider. “Experienced” riders, whether dirt or pavement have to be “un-taught” several things. We have continually remind them to use both brakes, look through the turns and press the inside bar to turn. Beyond that, I never really know if they are accepting of the techniques taught or are just placating me to get through the course.
FWIW…all new riders in this state MUST complete the MSF/BRC in order to get a license as there is no longer a riding test given by the state, only a written test.
ParticipantBattery Tender (the brand) is really a good investment to keep your batteries up to snuff. When you put it up, hook it up. I just replaced my wifes battery (original 2004) and changed the battery on my 2004 BMW RT (55K, and five years old).
Adding the electrolite is no biggie at all. I like Yuasa’s, but I had to add the electrolite to that too…it took maybe five minutes.
The sealed batteries are a fine chose, but I don’t see any real advantage to them except they can be mounted in any configuration.
ParticipantHey Kevin,
Where do you live? I have’t heard of a course lasting six days…not saying there isn’t one, just haven’t heard of it. That would only be about two hours a day to complete it at that rate.
ParticipantCraigslist is excellent! eBay is very good and it will allow you to understand what the market looks like for used bikes.
Here is a website for a dealership a friend owns in Dallas. You can use it to compare prices as well.
http://www.southwestsuperbikes.com
As a new rider, I’d shy away from a brand new bike regardless. Too many variables starting out. FWIW…I’ve only bought one brand new bike…and I don’t think I’ll ever do it again!
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