[CTFan3134]

Hey everyone! I’ve been lurking here for a while, and finally made an account to ask some questions. Just turned 18 the other week, and have wanted a Ninja since I was about ten. Unfortunately, I’m about as knowledgeable about mechanics as I am about quantum physics, so I need a bit of advice.

Is this a good deal?
http://annarbor.craigslist.org/mcy/1540937586.html

If I trust his word, and the problem really is old oil/gas and a dirty carb, how much would that cost? And if not, what’s the worst-case scenario as far as repair cash goes? Is 15,000 miles a lot for a Ninja 250R? Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks!

[bigguybbr]

Hmmmm, tough to say. If it has been dropped a few times, it’s tough to know exactly how much is wrong with it. With possible parts and labor (since you aren’t handy with a wrench) that $800 bike could possibly be closer to a $1500 – $2000 bike. I would be wary of an almost 10 year old bike that doesn’t run and has been dropped multiple times.

[CTFan3134]

Yeah, good point. Also, a friend pointed out to me that there’s ’04 plastic on an ’01 machine, it can’t be as easy to fix as he claims. Thanks.

[Sean_D]

Chances are the bike will need at least a top end rebuild costing you about $800-$1,000. Total engine rebuild could cost you $1,200 to $1,800. Hopefully you could get away with just the top-end, but chances are that it will cost you at least double the asking price to get it on the road and maybe more. Owner claims the bike has been laid down a few times, but with no noticeable damage, but if it has ’04 plastic on it, chances are the damage was more noticeable at one point than the owner is admitting.

[Gary856]

– $800 for an ’01 Ninja 250 w/ 15k miles is a good deal.
– Why was the clutch cable disconnected? Ask the seller that, and ask him to connect it back.
– Ask the seller how long the bike has been sitting to get a sense of the age of the gas and condition of the carb. The shop I use charges about $150 to clean/adjust the carb.
– The ad says “looks like in the pictures”. Does that the pictures are not the actual bike? Does that explains the ’04 plastic?
– Ask the seller about how the bike was dropped. Tip overs are generally no big deal; all the new riders do that. Even some low speed lowsides only damages the handlebar and plastics, as long as the bike didn’t smash into something hard.

Bottom line – if the bike starts and runs ok, then it may be a good buy. May just need to get fresh gas, oil change, and a tune up; about $200-$250 or so.

[CBBaron]

Given your mechanical ability I would look for a bike without problems for a first. I’m somewhat comfortable around machines but no mechanic, and I felt much better getting a like new Ninja 250 with 1000 miles and no damage. I paid twice what you are looking at but have a bike that was ready to ride and looks great. With only 1000 miles and no obvious damage I should be free from problems caused by abuse from the previous owner.

$800 is a good price if it runs well and is in rideable shape, but only if you have the knowledge to fix any problems yourself. Once you start paying someone else it can eat money real fast.

Craig

[WeaponZero]

Unless you’re looking for a restoration project bike, you should NEVER buy something that doesn’t run like new. I’d pass.

[IBA270]

Pass.

[Sean_D]

… is the sellers comments.. “It’s not been running for a while and the clutch cable is disconnected, so you’ll have to get it started. It comes with a New Battery and a Brand New Rear Tire. Bottom line…get it running (no parts required) and it’ll run for a very long time.

Well Sir.. if it is that darned easy why don’t you connect the clutch cable, get it running yourself and sell it for more than $800. Sounds to me like a seller who figures he is much better off if a perspective buyer can’t get it running before shelling out the $$ and discovering what problems it really has.

[SantaCruzRider]

$800 is a lot fora non-running 10-yr-old bike that has possibly been wrecked. Typically, if it’s was so easy to get it running, the seller is foolish not to do so. Even if it runs rough, it ads significantly to the value. So that tells you that the seller is either grossly underestimating the work needed (ie. possibly lying) or he is lazy beyond believe. Neither trait is desireable in former owners of your next bike.

[XRayHound]

I would buy it in a heartbeat but I’m a semi-professional mechanic with enough sportbikes and cars in my yard/garage to field a privateer race team if that durn lottery check would ever clear
If you’re not comfortable with diving into it with wrench and sync gauges in hand, I think you should look elsewhere unless you enjoy funding your local mechanic’s child’s college education.

[Author]

Posts