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scraping in the curves on a 500cc scooter
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scraping in the curves on a 500cc scooter
  • This topic has 5 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 1 month ago by Jeff in Kentucky.
Viewing 6 posts - 1 through 6 (of 6 total)

scraping in the curves on a 500cc scooter

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  • April 16, 2010 at 10:08 pm #3880
    Jeff in Kentucky
    Participant

    This might be the lowest priced bike that comes with ABS braking as an option, made in Taiwan, but I think this road is in Italy:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6Os1_leXos&feature=related

    April 17, 2010 at 12:05 pm #25799
    TrialsRider
    Participant

    just like watching a mario kart video game , made me a little nauseous :b
    I gotta go for a ride now and settle my stomach

    April 18, 2010 at 2:58 pm #25811
    Jeff in Kentucky
    Participant

    The video is quite shaky from a low budget camera- but I used to get more motion sickness from playing the Doom computer game. It seems a lot harder to scrape the right side for the 500cc Kymco scooter than the left side, but he did not seem to have any problems with controlling the steering while it scraped.

    Kymco seems to be a pretty reliable brand for the price- here is a torture test for their 250cc model:

    http://www.motorbyte.com/mmm/pages/2004/69/feature69_1.htm

    May 7, 2010 at 12:48 am #26238
    Jeff in Kentucky
    Participant

    A common misconception is that leaning a motorcycle is what causes it to turn, and the more you lean the faster it will turn. One of the teachers made a bike with fixed handlebars and turning forks (maybe Keith Code), to show students that all the leaning in the world would not turn this bike very well.

    You turn the handlebars with countersteering if you are going more than about 2 mph, which comes naturally if you rode a bicycle first, and the more you turn (push) the handlebars and the faster you are going, the more the bike will lean afterwards. If you are going way too fast and turning (pushing) the handlebars way too sharp, the scraping metal parts (hopefully a footpeg feeler- on my old bike the exhaust pipe scraped first on the right side) will start to lift the back tire off the ground or cause the front tire to start to slide (tuck). If this happens, do not panic- suddenly putting the throttle to idle, pulling in the clutch all the way, or slamming on one or both brakes usually causes more problems.

    May 7, 2010 at 2:12 am #26242
    megaspaz
    Participant

    Take code’s no body steering bike with a grain of salt. He is right that counter steering is what turns the bike and you get that by pushing/pulling on the bars but you can get that affect from a variety of ways besides consciously pushing or pulling the handlebars. Nobody rides the way he demonstrates that bike. The fact of the matter is that you can steer the bike with inside peg weighting and body position/steering. The way your body works is that it isn’t stiff and making adjustments with your body will affect your hands on the bars. At high speeds the last thing you want to do is make adjustments to your line or entry by consciously using only your hands. It’s pretty damn hard and takes a lot of concentration to make any adjustments using just your hands. Plus at high speeds just doing that will stiffen up your body which is what you don’t want. It’s easier to point your body into the turn and let your body dynamics handle the steering effect that happens when you make body position and peg weighting adjustments.

    May 7, 2010 at 10:46 pm #26270
    Jeff in Kentucky
    Participant

    This article does not apply for a sportbike- only an expert can usually drag a part for them:

    http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/streetsurvival/drag_motorcycle_corners/index.html

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