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problems starting 98 gs500
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problems starting 98 gs500
  • This topic has 9 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 16 years, 2 months ago by tatt-catt.
Viewing 10 posts - 1 through 10 (of 10 total)

problems starting 98 gs500

  • Author
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  • February 27, 2010 at 9:42 pm #3725
    tatt-catt
    Participant

    hey ima new rider and i picked up a 98 gs500 9000miles,which i thought was good. its in nice shape,bike ran started fine when i got it. but it has been sitting for the winter. was outside then i brought it in cause it wouldnt start. i know it is a cold blooded bike, but its warm in the house n it still wont start? any info could help.. lights come on but horn wont work

    February 28, 2010 at 1:31 am #24675
    Munch
    Participant

    How long have you had it? How long has it been sitting since it was last ridden? Any other lights, switches electronics not working. There’s a lot of information that needs to be known before anyone can really help.

    February 28, 2010 at 5:08 pm #24679
    SantaCruzRider
    Participant

    The bike is likely just paying you back for several months of being neglected and ignored. Few bikes benefit from sitting for several months, especially when they are left outside in the elements.

    I know plenty of guys who have sold their bikes after finding out how expensive it is to keep a bike running when youuse it infrequently.

    My guess is that you’ve got a low battery — so charge it up.

    Next thing to worry about is the gas — I’m betting you didn’t add stabilizer, so it may be junk in there. Plus, if the tank wasn’t full, condensation may have added some water to the mix, and that won’t help. I’d drain the tank, drain the float bowls, add new gas with a dose of Sea Foam, pull and clean (or replace) the plugs and then give it a try.

    If it works, count yourself lucky for avoiding the ubiquitous carb rebuild. Then commit to either running the bike every few weeks or sell it while it still has some value.

    Best of luck.

    February 28, 2010 at 5:28 pm #24681
    TrialsRider
    Participant

    Otherwise agreed, I think you’re about to learn how to clean out a carburetor, or at the very least drain the float bowls, watch for rust particles and water accumulation from condensation in the fuel tank, if you are able to collect the fuel you drain from the float bowls. Might be a dumb suggestion; but I think there is a kill switch on both the clutch lever and the side stand, best test is to see if there is any spark.
    Is that a Boxer dog I see on your avatar?

    February 28, 2010 at 11:08 pm #24684
    tatt-catt
    Participant

    well its road ride was in Oct. the guy keeped it well maintaned. When i got it a month in ahalf ago and it ran fine, i even took it for a lil ride. Then put in shed (it is snowing here.) so one day i went out and would not start..so i made room in house and brought it in, after a day of chargeing battery and getting warm she startted right up.. but being in the house i couldnt keep it running.. So it sat for about 2 weeks just chilling, then i tryed to start one day and it hasnt started yet. it wants too, could i just be flooding it? i charged it with a 2amp charger. it dont seem to keep a good charge, well not even enough to sound the horn all other stuff works (turning signals, headlight, tail light.) Snow here should be gone in about a month, i just wanna get a head start..

    SantaCruzRider- lol but thanks its all new to me but ill get info in try what you said, could help, well i hope..

    And TrialsRider no shes a American Pitbull, thats my baby. she just had a litter i kept this only one that looks just like a Rotti, Tri-Color very rare color for Pit. But thanks too for info

    March 3, 2010 at 4:52 am #24739
    TrialsRider
    Participant

    The horn draws a lot of power, second only to the headlight and starter motor. If the starter draws more power than the battery can handle, spark plug performance will suffer. Indication of this is when it’s cranking and then it tries to fire only at the instant you let off on the starter button.
    Inspect the battery for an accumulation of sediment, if the crap is up to the plates it’s toast, if it looks reasonable, make certain the battery fluid levels are up. Max charging rate is 1.4A and charging time is determined by the age of the battery. The mfg. date is on the side of the battery (month, date, year) if the battery is over 12 months old they call for a 60 hour charge time at the 1.4 amp rate.
    You can hydrometer test the battery fluid, if you have the tools; The electrolyte specific gravity should be 1.28 at 20 degrees C
    …hope this helps some

    March 3, 2010 at 3:36 pm #24755
    tatt-catt
    Participant

    say both them well help im getting ti it now thanks Elwood1960 and TrialsRider. i know i need to get her started first,but. I’ve been looking around and some places say a 7/8 will fit my handlebars.. I wanted to get stright bars, like broomstick bars, or something stright but with a little pullback?

    March 3, 2010 at 10:48 pm #24760
    tatt-catt
    Participant

    also will something like a broomstick bars, or something stright but with a little pullback effect the way it handles much?

    March 4, 2010 at 1:41 am #24763
    TrialsRider
    Participant

    I’m currently shopping for a set of clubman bars, Manx replica fuel tank, rear-sets, racing seat and some other bits, with the intent of converting my old FT500 Ascot into a cafe racer. The flat bars you refer to are occasionally referred to as drag bars, or clubmans for seniors as they will shift your weight forward and down, but not as radically as clip-on’ or clubmans.

    I personally prefer the forward and down riding position, particularly at speed. The crouched race riding position also generally warrants rear-set footpegs and controls to be comfortable and remain in control, but then I’m extremely flexible, more athletic then most, and have been riding for several decades.

    Yes, it will radically affect the low speed handling. It pains me to say it; you really need to learn with the standard bars first, they offer far more leverage if you get the thing off balance and need to muscle it upright. Also you don’t want to go modifying your new bike right off, at least not until you have something to compare your modifications to.

    Do the rider training course first if you haven’t already, if you can clean everyone else in the slow race including the instructor, then maybe you can handle low bars. …good luck if there is a Trials rider in your class ;)

    March 4, 2010 at 3:15 pm #24772
    tatt-catt
    Participant

    lol thats what i wanted to hear, i dont wanna go get these bars if is going to radically change the way i handle. Im not trying to lay her down, this is my first time on her. i agree i should learn how to handle her first.

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