[SafetyFirst]

You guys know what I’m talking about? Once the engine and the tires are warm, you get to have the most fun with everything working how it should.

But I’ve found when riding home from work at 6am, that the bike is a different creature when it’s cold and the choke is open. I think I’ve gotten so used to the bike, when I clutch into a stop, hearing the engine at 2500 rpm instead of 1100 makes me notice it. It acts different starting off from a stop, too, because it’s already at 2500 rpm.

I think FI is in my future.

[eternal05]

Do you leave the clutch on while you ride?

[SafetyFirst]

You mean choke? Yes, until it hits the lower level of the temp gauge.

[eternal05]

Once you’re moving you shouldn’t need the choke anymore. Riding with the choke on will really change the engine response as it runs too rich. Use the choke to get the bike started and get moving, but as soon as you’re in gear and on your way, you can ease it off. The bike will warm up plenty quickly under load, even in very cold weather.

[Clenzer72]

I rearly need to use my choke on the 08 ninja 250, but when I do (actually even if I don’t) I don’t hit the road until the engine is warmed up.
My understanding is that if you start riding before proper engine warming is that the oil hasn’t been dispersed throughout the engine and causes more potential damage, small it may be, but still not good for the engine.
If I’m wrong, set me straight.
I start the bike, gear up and then walk bike out of garage….and it’s warmed by then.

[eternal05]

I stand by this:

Correct use of choke

Warming up your engine

[SafetyFirst]

OK, I tried your advice to go choke-less for the first few minutes while riding in the cold last night. One stall while braking before a turn. Another stall braking for a stop sign. Opened the choke a tinch to where I didn’t make much difference to the engine speed, closed it after about a block, and no problems the rest of the way.

[SafetyFirst]

My manual says that choking while in motion is acceptable, so long as you turn it off after 15 seconds above 68 degrees F, 1.5 minutes under 68 degrees F, or 2 minutes below 40 degrees F. Also, don’t exceed 2500 RPM. And don’t choke for more than 5 minutes under any condition.

I have no problems starting when the bike has been cooking in the sun. If it’s in the shade in the day a little choke is needed, but using the throttle to keep engine speed up for a few seconds then slowly dropping it to idle works, too. Note I said slow. The trick whether using choke or throttle is to reduce engine speed slowly, not watch it dive down, because it’ll drop below idle and then you get the angry red oil light and a stall. And if it’s a cold night, then choking is a def, or else the problems as mentioned in the post a few up happen.

[eon]

I think there is some miscommunication going on here between SF and eternal. As far as I can see you are both saying the same thing. That website gives good advice. My scoot is FI but I have plenty of experience using chokes on cars and I assume the principles are the same. You quickly learn to hear and feel the engine to know just how much it needs. And driving away will get the engine up to speed 10x quicker than leaving it sitting there.

[eternal05]

Well put eon.

I wasn’t saying not to use the choke. As eon seems to be echoing, I endorse the following:

1) Use the minimum amount of choke to get the bike to start.

2) Once it starts, start riding!

3) Once you’re moving, and especially if you don’t have any stops or intersections for a while, ease the choke back off. It only takes a couple of blocks for the engine to be warm enough where what you (SF) describe — where the engine fumbles when getting going again — won’t happen.

[Author]

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