Ninja 250 shift points?
June 12, 2009 at 10:09 pm #2997SafetyFirstParticipant
I saw this table in the EX250F17 MOM, and it made me tilt my head.
Vehicle speed when shifting:
1st to 2nd: 12 MPH
2nd to 3rd: 15 MPH
3rd to 4th: 19 MPH
4th to 5th: 21 MPH
5th to 6th: 28 MPH
6th to 5th: 15 MPH
5th to 4th: 12 MPH
4th to 3rd: 9 MPH
3rd to 2nd: 9 MPH
2nd to 1st 9 MPH
WTF?June 12, 2009 at 10:43 pm #19661EliasParticipant
The first one makes me think those are the minimum speeds to be entering the sequential gear, but the second table doesn’t make sense to me.June 12, 2009 at 11:23 pm #19664SantaCruzRiderParticipant
This looks vaguely familiar — I think it might be the recommendation for the break in when you have to keep revs down — and was addressed in an earlier post on Ninja breakin. You might try doing a search (go to Yahoo and search for Ninja 250 break in best beginner motorcycles or something similar.June 13, 2009 at 1:13 am #19668eternal05Participant
You’ll notice that you get into 6th gear at 28mph, allowing you to stay under the 35mph top speed limit (4000rpm in 6th) imposed by break-in.
You can forget about these shift points. In general, there are no “set” shift points. You shift at a certain spot to achieve a desired effect: more power, higher fuel efficiency, less noise, less vibration, etc. Here’s a general guideline for AFTER you have the bike broken in:
To save gas: Shift up around 5500-6500rpm. Don’t do this in any situation where you might need power!
For normal riding: Shift up around 8K-10K rpm depending on how much noise, vibration, and fuel guzzling you can tolerate. This keeps you around 6000-8000rpm most of the time, which is in the lower portion of the Ninja’s powerband. This means that, if needed, you can still get a quick burst of speed to get out of a tight situation, but you’ll also not be at a crotch-rattling, fuel-burning, and oh-so-raucous high-rpm level.
I’m sure you are doing this anyway, but try to get away from looking at the tach as soon as possible when on the street. The feel and sound of the bike are more than enough to tell you where you are once you get calibrated for your bike, and every downward glance you can avoid is one more split second you can have your eyes up on the road. Truth is, you’ll actually start getting smoother when you feel the right moment to take action, rather than time it by tach.
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