- This topic has 8 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 14 years, 10 months ago by Munch.
I should know this, but I don’t – buying a used motorcycle
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May 18, 2009 at 1:36 am #2844dfulmerParticipant
Hi. My name is David and I’m a newbie. I’ve taken the MSF course, and I’ve ridden 1000 miles on a 2002 Suzuki GZ250 that I bought at auction. It was an MSF trainer bike. I’m now planning on buying a used Kawasaki Vulcan 500 LTD motorcycle, somewhere around model years 2000-2004 based on the Nada Guides price range (any problems with these years?)
I’ve read the Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide (http://www.clarity.net/adam/buying-bike.html) but one thing I don’t see listed is, once the buyer agrees on a price with the seller, how much money, if any, should the buyer give the seller to hold the bike and “take it off the market”? Is this money (deposit) considered non-refundable?
Also, does the seller usually go with the buyer to a tag place to transfer the title, and is it at the tag place, right before the title is transferred to the buyer, that the buyer pays the seller the full price of the motorcycle (less the deposit)?
Thanks for any help!
May 18, 2009 at 1:02 pm #18642Clay DowlingParticipantSome people might want more, or be willing to settle for less, but $100 will usually hold the bike. As for the title transfer, the seller can do that at his house/business when you hand over the money. He signs off on the back of the title. You take the title down to the DMV, request a new title and registration. You’ll probably have to pay tax on the bike. Note that the DMV doesn’t really have a good way to check that the price you state the bike traded for is the price you actually paid, they’ll go off the price on the title and if it seems reasonable, that’s the price you’ll be taxed on.
May 18, 2009 at 2:08 pm #18643bigguybbrParticipantA lot of sellers will ask for a deposit to hold the bike, which is fine, just make sure you get a signed receipt and don’t use cash. You want to be able to prove that money changed hands, so that if they sell the bike out from under you, you have recourse. As to whether or not it is non-refundable, you need to have that spelled out on your receipt in writing. The seller needs to be protected from joe schmoe who puts $200 on a bike and doesn’t turn up for 6 months, and then wants his money back. The buyer needs to be protected if say they are unable to secure financing for said bike. Generally work out a date to finalize the deal when you give your deposit, and anytime before that date, the buyer can back out without penalty.
About registering you bike (I assume that is what you mean by going to the tag place), check your DMV’s website. They will have all the information that you need to register the bike. Generally that is a bill of sale (signed by the seller, they will not need to be present) and proof of insurance. In my state you also better have 2 checks handy, one for the sales tax, the other for the registration fees. Oh also remember, depending on where you live, if it hasn’t been registered within the last 2 years, they will only give you a temporary registration, and you will have to go back to the dmv with the bike to have it inspected.
May 24, 2009 at 2:03 am #18877dfulmerParticipantToday I looked at a 2008 Suzuki Boulevard S40 with 1440 miles on it in excellent condition with no dents or scratches. It had Suzuki saddlebags and saddlebag bars, and an asking price of $3200. Of course the state inspection expires the end of this month.
I looked the bike over using my MSF T-CLOCS pre-ride inspection checklist. One thing on the bike that didn’t work was the handlebar lock. We couldn’t get the handlebar to lock with the key. We could push the lock tumbler in and turn it left but it wouldn’t turn full right to lock the handlebar. I assume that’s how you lock the handlebar because that’s what he said when he read the owner’s manual.
How much could it cost to have this problem fixed? Is this a big deal or is a disc rotor lock an acceptable alternative?
I asked him if he winterized the bike at all and he said no. Is this a problem? I had him start the bike up for me with the engine cold and it started right up with no choke at all. It sounded good and it revved good when I blipped the throttle. I finally heard in person what I’ve read about this bike with its tendency to backfire. It didn’t sound objectionable to me, but maybe after listening to it for several months it will?
Also, does anyone know at what speeds you need to upshift on this bike? How fast can you go in first gear before you need to upshift into second gear, etc.? On the Suzuki GZ250 I previously owned, I was constantly upshifting.
Thanks for any help!
May 24, 2009 at 2:10 am #18879dfulmerParticipantI forgot to mention that this bike also had Suzuki crash bars on it for that asking price.
May 24, 2009 at 3:48 am #18891SantaCruzRiderParticipantEven a nominal amount ($100) can hold the bike, but you should write up a quick contract stating what the deposit is for. Are you arranging financing, buying decision pending inspection by your mechanic? A short description of the deal on notebook paper can avoid lots of confusion and is legally binding.
Also, I’ve found that most folks willing to sign a quick deposit contract are normal folks who want to make a fair deal and understand the need to protect your assets.May 24, 2009 at 5:50 am #18898briderdtParticipantI don’t even know if it’s supposed to lock out to the right side using the key lock, so that may or may not be a maintenance issue with the one you’re looking at…
May 24, 2009 at 1:41 pm #18906dfulmerParticipantNo, what I meant to say is that with the handlebar turned full left, we couldn’t lock it in that position. Is this a known problem with these bikes or just the one I was looking at? Is this a big deal and is it expensive to fix?
May 25, 2009 at 12:29 am #18920MunchParticipantNot sure on the bike in question but on some if you go too far to one side you actually go pass the space alotted to let the lock pin go out. Like my V900 and my 500 also …if you went full to one side or the other the pin would not go into the recess…. but if you go back just a little bit you can get it in. Did you try that?
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