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Buying new tires…some tips
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October 11, 2008 at 8:21 pm #2237chromium ghostParticipant
I’ve just spent 5 of my life pouring over the minutia and ludicrous amounts of misinformation on the web about tires. My eyes feel like they have been painted over with crazy glue and my ashtray overfloweth, So, if you are in the market for new tires and just want the straight dope without the heartburn and aching index finger, read on:
Don’t buy cheap tires. They are the only part of your bike that makes contact with the pavement…or if you skimp and get cheapie chinese tires, there might be a few other parts making contact with the pavement.
Never, ever, ever buy track tires for your bike. You will die. Tires designed for the track actually perform WORSE on the street than street tires. They will never reach the proper temperature to stick to the road and they will not last more than a few weeks. Again, you will die.
Softer rubber compounds grip better than harder compounds but wear faster. As a beginner it makes more sense to get softer tires even though they will have to be replaced sooner as the increased grip will make the bike easier to handle. Sadly there does not seem to be an industry standard for tire density. You have to glean this info from other riders or call the manufacturer.
Tires need to be broken in. Some tires, especially those made with harder compounds, will actually be slippery for the first 100 miles or so. You can speed up the break in time using goo gone, or scotch brite, or maybe a quick spin in some gravel…{I haven’t actually tried this or researched it fully yet, so take this tip with the proverbial grain of salt.}
Tires are speed rated with a letter system. H rated tires are rated at 130 mph while V rated tires are rated at 149 mph. Even though you are more than likely not going to be cruising along at 149 mph on main Street, the higher the speed rating the better the grip.You should also always match your tires by speed rating. i.e. don’t put an H rated tire on the front and a V rated tire on the back. You should also try and stick with one model, or at least one brand.
All of the major brands have “fitment guides” which will tell you which tires should theoretically work best on your bike. Don’t just blindly take their advice though. It’s far better to ask people who have owned the tires for a few thousand miles before making an assessment.
A more rounded tire profile will be better at keeping the bike in a straight line, while a more V shaped tire will be better at cornering. A V shaped tire has more surface area in contact with the road when you are leaned over. They also make leaning much easier. People have described them as “falling” into a lean, so BE CAREFUL on your new tires until you know how they respond to your input.
Never put a larger or smaller sized tire on your bike than your manufacturer recommends.
Try to avoid buying old tires, even if they were never mounted. Tires “off gas” when exposed to heat, and the more they off gas the harder they get. This actually makes the tires more durable, but if you are buying a particular tire for its stickiness, an older, harder tire will never be as sticky as a fresh one.
Tires are dated with a 3 or 4 digit code: the first two digits are the week of the year, the last two are the year. In other words if you are buying tires and they only have a 3 digit code, this means they are pre 2000 and should be priced accordingly {free}
Out of all the thousands of tire review posts I read the three top tires for basic commuting use on the road, with a good balance between stickiness and long life are listed below. They were all similar in price, around 125 for the rear wheel and 95 for the front. My local shop however, wants to charge me 75 bucks PER TIRE to mount and balance them. So all in all you should budget around 325 bucks to re shoe your baby.
Avon Roadriders:
These are brand new and are specifically designed for commuting. They were my first choice, but sold out in my size in all the usual places. They are made of a new compound containing silica and are considered a Low Rolling Resistance Tire. These tires will actually increase fuel efficiency. That’s right Obamakins, INCREASE FUEL EFFICIENCY. Avon tires are also known for being very sticky. Get them if you can find them in your size.
Metzeler Lasertecs:
The compound also contains silica, and is similar to the Avons. The lasertecs seem to be among the highest rated tires for wet riding and are famous for their longevity. I read one review which compared the first hundred miles on these guys as “riding on silly putty”, but after the break in period they are supposed to be amazing.
Pirelli Sport Demons
The front tread design is very similar to the Avon Roadriders which features a wavy groove around the center tread of the tire. This is in theory at least, better suited for avoiding “white lining” on painted surfaces, rain grooves and grated bridges, while also decreasing the likelihood of hydroplaning in the rain. This is a good thing. They are also extremely sticky.
I ended up getting the Sport Demons as they were the only ones not back ordered at the usual sites. They were my third choice really, but I would have had to wait two weeks for the Roadriders and 4 days for the lasertecs. I am pretty sure they will not last as long as the lasertecs, but should be as grippy as the Roadriders.
Will post a follow up next week when I have them mounted.
October 12, 2008 at 12:09 am #13733bob250ParticipantGreat post, great info. gj
October 12, 2008 at 12:47 am #13734MunchParticipantI commend you and thank you on your accuracy involving tire manu. dates and other tidbits. I work in the Automotive industry and am well aware of the abundance of misinformation out there.
I haven’t looked into it yet for bikes but another thing that is a misnomer in automotive is the “tread wear rating” . This is not reliable information as it is only standardized within that manufacturer… its not an industry standard… so a “AAA” tread wear rating for Goodyear might be equivalent to say an “A” rating from …. Michelin.
Air pressure is another thing. Go by manufacturers recommendation…not the max capacity molded on the tire….why?…what happens to a balloon when you take it to max then smack it between your hands? Tires are just big rubber balloons. Fill it to max capacity , add a well placed pot hole and then pray you don’t get to see the close up contents of whats on the side of the road.
Automotive wise– car tires (ANY) have a life expectancy of 6 years to be safe on the road. They make look fine on the outside but the inside deteriorates and looses its structure. The 6 years is mandated by NHSTA. Not sure if it applies to bikes but if anything I would imagine the time being slightly less.Yesterday is a memory, tomorrow is a prediction, but today…… is a Bi**h
October 12, 2008 at 3:42 pm #13750zgotzillaParticipantFantastic and important post. You might not only have saved peoples time, but you may have also saved some lives. Thank you very much.l
October 12, 2008 at 7:21 pm #13758chromium ghostParticipantIt actually started out as a way to save money as my local shop, being one of only 3 or 4 {not including the BMW and ducati stealerships} in all of Manhattan it is notoriously overpriced. They wanted to charge me 150 per tire PLUS 150 for mounting for Dunlops which were about 40 bucks each at bikebandit. Not only that, but they ONLY had dunlops in my size. More than likely old ones too.
FYI Metzeler tires are standard equipment on all new BMWs.
October 13, 2008 at 9:25 am #13780bob250Participant“stealerships”. Amen to that.
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