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Harley-Davidson Street 500: Beginner Bike Profile + Owner Reviews
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July 29, 2010 at 2:06 am in reply to: Jackets: Firstgear Kenya vs. Olympia Airglide vs. Scorpion Holeshot #27832
Rab
ParticipantThen I would say that not all “ballistic nylons” are created equal
July 28, 2010 at 10:25 pm in reply to: Jackets: Firstgear Kenya vs. Olympia Airglide vs. Scorpion Holeshot #27825Rab
ParticipantIn Olympia’s nomenclature, “ballistic nylon” is what the mesh is made of, DuPont Cordura is the textile part.
I also have a “Carbolex” and “ballistic polyester” jacket and it tore no problem at all when I fell over on concrete chasing our youngest (on foot).
It is definitely not in the same league as DuPont’s Cordura in my experience.
July 28, 2010 at 10:20 pm in reply to: Jackets: Firstgear Kenya vs. Olympia Airglide vs. Scorpion Holeshot #27824Rab
ParticipantYes, I agree that there are other jackets of this type out there now although the Airglide may just have been the original.
I would say however, that this type of jacket is the most versatile that I’ve come across and is the only jacket I have that I would want to wear 3 season (I also have a vented full textile and a vented leather jacket).
Geography may play a part in this however as it is often 90-100+ degrees in the Summer where I live but it gets chilly in the spring and fall.
If I only had one motorcycle jacket, the Airglide type of jacket would be my choice (and was my only jacket for a couple of years).
July 28, 2010 at 10:06 pm in reply to: Jackets: Firstgear Kenya vs. Olympia Airglide vs. Scorpion Holeshot #27822Rab
ParticipantNot quite. The Airglide has Cordura at all the likely touchdown points, not mesh.
Yes, it’s not as protective as a leather jacket (nor as heavy, hot and sweaty in hot weather), but it has armor for your joints which many leather jackets lack. Also most leather jackets are horrible when wet and take forever to dry. The Airglide not nearly so much.
The Cordura is much stronger than other materials that are used in some “full textile” jackets as I’ve proven to myself (don’t ask). I don’t know about the strength of “ballistic nylon”.
Where “full textile” jackets have the edge is in their waterproof membranes, whereas the outer shell of the Airglide will get wet in the rain (well as wet as nylon type material gets (not very). The Airglide’s inner waterproof jacket will keep you dry though.
With full textile jackets in hot weather, you have to mess around with lots of vents which are often difficult to open and close due to their location.
It’s all about compromises…
July 28, 2010 at 9:42 pm in reply to: Jackets: Firstgear Kenya vs. Olympia Airglide vs. Scorpion Holeshot #27820Rab
ParticipantI would disagree that the Olympia Airglide Jacket is a “mesh jacket”. It’s a multi-part armored textile and mesh jacket system which is so much more than a simple mesh jacket.
The outer shell (jacket) has CE armor (elbows, shoulders and back) and is a Cordura textile jacket, with “ballistic nylon” mesh panels (~50/50 in terms of cordura vs mesh). It also comes with a waterproof/windproof liner jacket(s). This is a one-piece inner jacket on my (earlier version) jacket, but is, I believe, two separate liner jackets in the newest versions. It/these can be zipped to the outer shell or just worn underneath as the weather dictates.
This gives it great flexibility in terms of weather as the armored outer shell can be worn on it’s own for hot weather or worn in conjunction with the waterproof/windproof liner(s) for cooler weather.
It also has hidden elastic at the waist which allows we middle-age guys to “spread” a little without having to buy new gear.
The 3M reflective piping doesn’t look like much, but it lights up like a Christmas tree at night.
I would wear a rain suit over it if I were expecting heavy rain, but would have no fear of being caught in the rain with it alone.
I’ve been wearing my Airglide I jacket 4 to 5 days a week, 3 seasons of the year (NorCal) for 3 years now and have been wearing the matching airglide over-pants (which are similar), 4 to 5 days a week all year. Never once has there been a failure of a zip or seam etc.
I’ve come off the bike in them a couple of times (at low speed) and can’t see any damage to the jacket/pants other than light scuffing.
They cost a bit more than most other jackets and pants of this type, but the quality is there to justify it.
Rab
ParticipantYou might consider a Suzuki GSX650F instead of the Bandit GSX1250F.
It’s essentially the same bike but with a 650 c.c. FI engine instead of the 1250.
I’ve had one for almost 2 years now (~25,000 miles on it) and for street riding, unless you’re very heavy, it’s almost certainly as much as you’ll need in terms of power and speed (I weigh ~200 lbs). It’s also just fine for the week-end two-up ride with my (slimmer than me) Wife.
Looks like a sport bike but has a more upright riding position, goes 130+ mph and is very smooth and comfortable at any speed I’ve taken it to (including over the ton). Very sure-footed too.
You’ll get better fuel mileage (~50 mpg freeway), lower insurance, less heat and less weight.
Extracts from reviews below:
“It’s aimed at novice riders looking for their first sports bike and older riders after something less frantic and ergonomically challenging than a GSX-R600; it deals with both tasks supremely well. The riding position leans you forward slightly without imposing too much weight on the wrists, while the seat is a reasonable height and comfortable too.” – telegraph
“The new motor is the same 656cc, water-cooled inline four that powers the Bandit. It’s a strong, solid motor that made a notable difference to the Bandit, and it works here, too. To quote Al, from his launch report, it’s “reasonably spunky”, and a vast improvement over the air-cooled unit it replaces. The power delivery is fairly linear, with plenty of low- and midrange, albeit lacking sparkle at the top-end.” – superbike
“For really defiant overtakes and a more focused feel, you can stir the silky smooth six-speed box and keep the revs between 6,000 and 8,000rpm, only licking the 12,500rpm red line if the buzz of the ride takes over. During the launch in France, I was pleasantly surprised at how easily the bike adapted to my various demands.” – cars
“The Suzuki GSX650F’s chassis is, for the most part, Bandit 650, too, being centred around the same, no frills, cost-conscious steel tube cradle and conventional forks. Yet in GSX-F guise it gets a more sophisticated shock for added sporting ability and subtly adjusted poise thanks to the fairing, new one-piece, rubber-mounted…” – MCN
“Overall handling on the Suzuki was quite balanced and agile. It turns in well, sticks to a line, and can be gassed hard out of a turn. While not being the most sophisticated chassis, the GSX650F isn’t going to do anything to get you in trouble. That is, of course, if you don’t push it far beyond its limits.” – motorcycle
“The Suzuki GSX650F, in my opinion, felt like the perfect motorcycle for somebody who wants a mean-looking bike that’s not a mean ride. Think of it as a kindred spirit to the ever-popular Kawasaki Ninja 250R, only heavier and more powerful.” – motorcycles.about
June 28, 2010 at 10:41 pm in reply to: Someone with zero riding experience has some questions… #27239Rab
ParticipantThere are two types of anti-fog insert for full-face helmets that I’m aware of:
1. The Fog City ones are a plastic film that sticks-on to your existing visor and stays stuck. I’ve not used those. They reportedly work well but may introduce a little visual distortion to the visor I’ve heard.
2. Pinlock is a two-piece thing:
(i) Your visor has to have two small plastic studs in it to anchor the Pinlock insert. Your helmet visor may come so equipped or you may have to purchase a suitably equipped accessory visor (they are available for a number of different helmet brands, but certainly not all brands). They used to sell a do-it-yourself kit to modify your own visor, but I don’t know if that’s still available or not.
(ii) The insert itself is made of a soft plastic which has a bead of silicon around the periphery to seal it against the visor. The insert comes in a variety of tints (you can’t go wrong with “clear” though) and is attached/detached by flexing the visor and aligning the notches on the insert with the plastic pins on the visor. The curvature of the visor once unflexed, keeps the insert firmly in place.
I have a Pinlock set-up on my HJC CL-15 and it works 100%, no fogging, no way, no how; in any kind of weather. It costs a bit, but it really does do what it says it does. The only drawback (if you can call it that) is that in pitch darkness, I can sometimes see some tiny “ghost” headlights reflected in the visor, but it’s really not a big deal and only seen on pitch black unlighted roads.
I use anti-fog sprays on my glasses when riding in cold/damp weather and they’re okay for that if re-applied every couple of days, but they’re not great when used on a visor as although the visor doesn’t “fog”, condensation tends to form and distort your view.
Rab
ParticipantYep! That’s my take on it too.
Rab
ParticipantRiding in the rain isn’t such a big deal if you are properly dressed for the occasion and have a solution for visor and glasses (if worn) fogging (i.e. Anti-fog sprays, Pinlock visor/insert or Fog City insert). Also a Rain-X treated visor and finger-wiper (see above).
Touring jackets/pants with a waterproof membrane built-in are much easier to wear than struggling to put rain gear on over non-waterproof armored jackets/pants. Waterproof gloves and boots are also essential.
Wearing bright colors and reflectives for increased visibility is a good idea too.
Yes, it can be a pain in the neck putting all that gear on (especially rain jackets/pants over armored gear), but you will be so much more comfortable and safe if you do.
Slow down, leave longer stopping distances between you and the car in front (at least 4 seconds). Reduce lean angle going around bends by taking them slower and/or by shifting your weight to the outside a little. Be smooth with the controls, no sudden moves (including speeding-up or slowing down). Brake earlier and be gentle on the brakes. Untextured metal plates, grates and railway lines are *very* slippery when wet, so don’t be braking, accelerating or leaning-over when you go over one. To a lesser extent, painted white lines can be slippery too. Avoid puddles (you don’t know how deep they are).
Phew! After thinking about all that lot, maybe riding in the rain *is* a big deal after all
Rab
ParticipantAs a year-round motorcycle commuter, I’ve found that turning your head at speed (keeping your eyes looking forward) and Rain-X help, but they won’t help when there is a very light rain/mist or dirty road spray gets thrown at you from the car in front, instantly blinding you. For that you need a finger-wiper a.k.a. Squeegee.
For most gloves, one of these (below) slipped over the finger will do nicely; they come in a pack of three:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/finger-visor-wipers/p2011168.jcwx
Alternatively, for thick-fingered Winter gloves, one of these (below) might be better as the ones above can cut off the blood supply to your finger if they’re too tight.
http://www.greenlightstuff.com/swipe.html
N.B. Neither my adult son nor I could get the Green Light Swipe to fit properly using the hook-and-loop cinch strap threading instructions supplied, so you may have to figure-out how to fit it on by experimentation like I did. I will say though, that the hook-and-loop cinch strap supplied feels kinda flimsy.
Both types of finger-wipers are worn on the left fore-finger or thumb and are simply swiped across your visor as necessary.
Rab
ParticipantYes, almost all beginners will “upgrade”, but I hope not to a bike like the B-King, which in my opinion is just another of the “let’s make it bigger and faster and more ‘badass’ just for the sake of it” bikes.
To get this into perspective, when I emigrated from Europe, the last car I had was a 4/5 seater and it’s engine was smaller than the one on this motorcycle with probably a lot less horsepower too.
I know a long time motorcyclist (in his early forties) who rides a 1250 Bandit and he’s come off that thing on at least 4 occasions to my knowledge in the last couple of years.
Unless you’re doing a lot of two-up riding and touring (which it sounds like the author is), no-one needs (or can even use) the power that a bike like this has, but if it makes some of you feel special, then I guess the marketing men have done their job…
Rab
ParticipantThese (below, not above) seem to be a well liked and inexpensive waterproof touring boot:
Tourmaster stand behind their products and honor their warranties in my experience.
Rab
ParticipantI’ve endured this quite often when coming across the San Francisco / Oakland Bay Bridge and often in pouring rain. I had much more of a problem on my naked bike than on my fully-faired one (contrary to what some have written above). Both bikes have traditional double-cradle heavy steel frames.
If it gets scary (which it can in a storm), slow down. Stay towards the side of your lane that the wind is blowing from so that if/when a gust hits you, you’ll still be in your lane as you get blown off your path (and it can be by feet, not just inches). Try to ride alongside an SUV or van which can shield you from the wind; just be sure they know you’re there though.
Rab
ParticipantI’ve been riding my 2008 GSX650F 70 (mostly freeway) miles a day, 4-5 days a week for around 2 years now, have no complaints whatsoever and have had no mechanical problems at all. I’ve never seen a bad review of this bike and I’ve seen quite a few.
It really hugs the road and is very stable, never getting blown around like many lighter bikes do. It feels so smooth and safe at speed; a very easy bike to ride, with an almost upright riding position which just feels “right”. I actually went to the dealer intent on buying a V-Strom 650, but having sat on them both, the GSX650F just felt so much more “right” to me, so I bought that instead (after some reflection).
The big advantage I would see over the Gladius (apart from the GSX650F looking much better IMO), is the windshield and fairing, which makes a BIG difference on the freeway (I previously had a naked Bonneville). Power wise, the GSX650F makes more power than the 800 c.c. Bonneville twin and is just a better motorcycle. I loved owning the Bonnie, but there’s no denying that the GSX650F is just a superior machine in virtually every respect.
If I had ANY dislikes about the GSX650F, it would be that first gear feels a bit short to someone who is used to a twin. It isn’t really, as the engine will quite happily scream up to 12,500 RPM (and sound like a gixxer doing it), but having come from a twin cylinder background, I’m happier changing up a gear when I hit 5000-6,000 rpm.
The Bandit/GSX1250FA is basically the same bike with a monster torque engine which many people feel to be overkill (unless you’ll be doing a lot of two-up touring). More insurance and engine heat, more expensive maintenance, less gas mileage.
Check out the forum at http://www.gsx650f.biz
Rab
ParticipantI got my last two from http://www.motorcyclesuperstore.com
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