Jeff in KentuckyStarting the engine- let the engine warm up at least a minute before taking off, to get more oil to the top of the engine. Pull the clutch lever in a few times before taking off, to get more oil in between the clutch plates. A carbed bike can have the choke left partly on for the first half mile so the engine runs better until fully warmed up, but remember to turn the choke off when the engine gets warm.
Carbs are set for a cleaner exhaust, and rejetting will make them run better, often just a washer to raise each jet needle and adjusting the pilot mixture screws further out (counterclockwise) will greatly improve the throttle response just above idle, when taking off from a stop sign.
Coolant- change every 2 years is best (every 5 years at the most), half Havoline Extended Life car coolant and half distilled water works as well as the dealer coolants for less cash, or the Evans NPG+ lasts the life of the engine but costs more initially. Most racetracks prefer distilled water and water wetter, but it will freeze and needs to be drained before below freezing temperatures.
Brake fluid- after a few years it will become a brown color from absorbed water and fluid breakdown, and should be replaced. I like the Valvolene Synthetic DOT4 brake fluid because it turns brown more slowly.
Brake pads- for disk brakes you can see the pad thickness, maybe use a flashlight. I rotate the tires backwards with my hand while holding a piece of fine sandpaper on both sides of the rotor, so the new brake pads are bedded in better, and I try to use the new brake pads more lightly for the first few days so the new pads last longer.
Fork oil- it is best to replace it every 20,000 miles. For riders weighing over 150 pounds, you can buy stiffer fork springs and heavier weight fork oil, so the front forks bounce and dive less.
Tire pressure- check it often, typically 30 pounds is best for racing, 35 pounds is best for longer tire life and the weight of a passenger, but the higher pressure somewhat reduces the cornering ability and how smooth the bike rides.
Oil- I suggest trying several, until you find what feels best for your clutch hand and shift foot. A good low priced oil is Rotella T 15w-40. A good medium priced oil is Rotella T 5w-40 Synthetic. Good high priced oils include Amsoil and Maxima. I would change the engine oil every 3000 miles or once a year, whichever comes first. If you change the engine oil twice a year, you can use 20w-50 oil in the summer for longer engine life.
Some reading:
http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain.php
http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm
http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html
